hentzau wrote:The main advice that I can give you (from my experience) is don't put a lip on the edge of the plywood.
Blackhawk wrote:Yeah, I'm not making a sand table, and I'm not using modular terrain, so a lip wouldn't be of much use. All I really need is a nice, smooth flat surface that won't tip over when someone bumps it or leans over to write on it. It doesn't even need to be pretty.
Meal, I don't plan on making that elaborate of a design (and as a former casino security guy, I'm pretty familiar with poker tables.) At most, the top will be plain wood with a layer of paint, and the 'legs' will be two end tables pulled out to the center of the floor for me to set the boards on.
I'm mostly looking for feedback on the basic materials and design. For instance: would a 1/4", four foot square masonite sheet with a 1x2 wood frame (something like this, but square) be sturdy and solid enough to stay flat and not get knocked around when someone bumps it.
Tommy20 wrote:Just saw this tonight:
LawBeefaroni wrote:Or maybe two 24"x80" doors with the hinges.
Blackhawk wrote:I'm mostly looking for feedback on the basic materials and design. For instance: would a 1/4", four foot square masonite sheet with a 1x2 wood frame (something like this, but square) be sturdy and solid enough to stay flat and not get knocked around when someone bumps it.
Boudreaux wrote:For a few dollars more, get a couple of sheets of heavy green or brown felt. Stretch them over the top surface, wrap around underneath and either hot glue or staple it to the frame. When I made a Halloween costume for my son, I think I bought a 3'x6' sheet of brown felt for something like $3.
If you build two, you could also attach a couple of draw latches to either side of the two frames, and then lay them on top of the tables and latch them together for added stablility.
Bad Demographic wrote:For what it's worth, if you want to be able to draw/write on the surface, Rustoleum makes a paint that acts like a dry-erase surface. I've never talked to anybody who has used it so I don't know how good it really is or how long it lasts.
Anonymous Bosch wrote:LawBeefaroni wrote:Or maybe two 24"x80" doors with the hinges.
That's exactly what my friend used. Works great, though I recall him saying that it took a bit of experimentation before he found the correct type of hinges, i.e. something that would allow the door slabs to fold out completely snug, without leaving any gap in the middle. I believe he found some piano hinges that did the trick.
For finishing them, I'd check with the manufacturer. If they're like the slab doors I've seen, they're not exactly standard wood (lauan?).
If info isn't available, and if it were me, I'd start with a coat of sanding sealer. Then sand it and see how it is. If it needs more protection, paint it with some kind of enamel paint.
I have no idea who made the doors. There was a sticker on them, but that went away days ago. As to the rest - A) does this sanding process require anything more than grabbing a handful of sandpaper and rubbing back and forth, or does it involve special equipment? and B) is the result sufficiently protected that should someone, say, spill a drink or set a wet glass on the thing for an hour that it wouldn't be harmed? Honestly, other than occasionally pounding a nail, I haven't done even the most rudimentary work with wood.
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