Geeks on BGG keep building tables while saying they have no woodworking skills. I convinced my wife that we need a table in the "Lego Room", which also happens to be where my board games live. The simplest design I could find was linked to this thread on the geek. I sent the linked doc to my father-in-law and got him to agree to build it with me. One of the guys I work with is a hobby carpenter and he helped me revise the plans.
Here's what we came up with, properly documented by IT standards: The Plans
I didn't take many pics while it was under construction, but here's the top. It's just assembled, not stained: The Top
The guy that inspired me made his legs by screwing 2x4s together. I used the power of the internet to order pre-made legs: She's Got Legs
I've ordered a forest green neoprene sheet to place in the play area. All we have left to do is attach the legs, do a little wood filler on a couple gaps and stain and seal.
I saw that same thread and I think I'm going to attempt it this winter with my buddy for my gaming basement. I'm using standard folding tables (which work great), but if they were just slightly wider they might help us deal with some of the miniature and board games (I'm looking at you Firefly) that leave us with very little player space.
I'm not 100% sold on the sunken style, but that's something that could be temporarily solved with a removable topper.
I don't really have the woodworking skills (or tools), but I'm good at supplying money and following directions with someone else there.
Smoove_B wrote:I don't really have the woodworking skills (or tools), but I'm good at supplying money and following directions with someone else there.
It turns out neither skill nor much in the way of tools are really a necessity. Perhaps more accurately the skills aren't all that specialized for this kind of construction. I'm not doing any fancy joints or anything. The miter cuts were the hardest part and they are completely optional. I did have Lowe's cut down the plywood for me. Their giant saw was better suited for that.
I am still a bit iffy on the sunken playing surface, which is part of why I only have a 2.25 inch recess as opposed to the 4.25 the BGG poster went with.
When we finally buy a house, I'll definitely be thinking about building a table for gaming. Of course, it may wind up needing to be a dining room table too, so some kind of lift-off topper might be in order. I do want some kind of felt surface for actually playing on.
Then, one day, I'll be good enough to design and build my very own Geek Chic-style MASTER GAMING TABLE.
I hope.
I can't imagine, even at my most inebriated, hearing a bouncer offering me an hour with a stripper for only $1,400 and thinking That sounds like a reasonable idea.-Two Sheds
From stalking coop on BGG, I saw that something like velvet was recommended over felt due to the pilling issues. If you've ever used a public pool table and looked under the bumpers, you know how much pilling and felt dust ends up getting shoved in there.
For larger games, I'm still very happy with the gaming board I made a while back. It stores easily, stays put, and only takes a few seconds to put on the table.
For smaller games that we just play on the table, I have a pair of double-sided yoga mats that I cut to fit the top of the table. They roll out with as little effort as a table cloth, are sturdy enough to last, keep pieces from slipping, keep dice from heading off to parts unknown, and are soft enough to make it easy to pick up cards.
When I'm done with a game, they roll up and take up almost no space.
For a while, I had a roll up poker table topper that worked pretty well, and was really cheap. The problem was that it wasn't quire the right size for the table, and I got rid of it when I got rid of the table. It was also slightly weird to be playing something like Descent and see the poker markings printed on the mat poking out all over.
I can't imagine, even at my most inebriated, hearing a bouncer offering me an hour with a stripper for only $1,400 and thinking That sounds like a reasonable idea.-Two Sheds
I really, REALLY want to do this for our basement. I have all my games on shelves down there, but until recently it's been so full of storage/boxes/crap that there was no room to play games. After a big garage sale we have a pretty sizable area that's clear. The entire basement is still unfinished and likely will continue to be for awhile, but I still think I could turn it into a decently comfortable gaming area where we could have a nice table and be able to set up big games (and more importantly, leave them set up). Right now we're limited to the kitchen table, which means games have to be right smack in the middle of the rest of the family, which is annoying.
I'm not sold on the deeply recessed gaming area of the table. I could see that if you wanted to lay a solid top over a game, but otherwise what's the point? Particularly if you're sitting at the table, having that raised edge is going to be uncomfortable. I could see a small raised edge on the outside to keep dice/bits on the table, but I wouldn't want that to be more than 1/4"-1/2".
I have several days at home by myself next week, and a decent collection of tools. Might have to give this a try.
The main thing I think I'd want from a gaming table is cup holders that hang off or pull out from the edge. That way they'd be held securely and off the main surface, so spills should be much harder to do.
I'd be tempted by a recessed surface only because it would make it easy to put the top back on to "pause" a game overnight. That might be a valuable thing if kids happen, and getting a whole game in at once becomes hard. Outside of that, I think it'd be kind of a pain. Actually, I might not mind it. I tend to prefer playing games from a high vantage point anyway, ideally sitting on a tall stool, hovering over the table like a nerd vulture.
I can't imagine, even at my most inebriated, hearing a bouncer offering me an hour with a stripper for only $1,400 and thinking That sounds like a reasonable idea.-Two Sheds
I realized after the fact that my configuration didn't allow for the recessed cupholders I would prefer. I'll get it right on the next one. As to the recessed surface. I have no idea if it will be good or bad. I'll let you know.
It may be beneficial for me if I put a cover over it to hide the kids legos.
In thinking about it more, I could see a small depression (1"-2") being really useful just to keep dice and whatnot on the table. My kids are terrible about dropping stuff, so that would be pretty handy.
In my first year of college, the lobby pool table got a lot of use as a gaming table. Aside from dropping the dice in the pockets, it was excellent for the task.
Funny. My wife and I were discussing how to get am odd sized but 48-50 inch long LEGO table for the basement now that they've outgrown both Duplos and their Ikea kid table. I would probably use rounded trim for the edge.
I am also looking to buy a 5 foot and 6 foot slab of Butcher Block for an 11 foot long family computer/project desk. Turns out that using fence post is an easy building solution to handle the weight.
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." - Albert Einstein "I don't stand by anything." - Trump “Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stuart Mill, Inaugural Address Delivered to the University of St Andrews, 2/1/1867 “It is the impractical things in this tumultuous hell-scape of a world that matter most. A book, a name, chicken soup. They help us remember that, even in our darkest hour, life is still to be savored.” - Poe, Altered Carbon
Zarathud wrote:I would probably use rounded trim for the edge.
I'm, not sure exactly what you are referring to here, but a router is a surprisingly simple tool to use. My table has a nicely rounded edge after about 3 minutes with a router.
Instead of a drop in the tabletop, I would nail or glue down a thin trim border along the top edges to keep LEGOS and dice from falling off.
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." - Albert Einstein "I don't stand by anything." - Trump “Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stuart Mill, Inaugural Address Delivered to the University of St Andrews, 2/1/1867 “It is the impractical things in this tumultuous hell-scape of a world that matter most. A book, a name, chicken soup. They help us remember that, even in our darkest hour, life is still to be savored.” - Poe, Altered Carbon
I had a 1 inch border on my gaming table with the purpose of keeping dice from rolling off the table. If all you do is miniatures games, it's not bad. As soon as we started doing board gaming, I hated it. That border just got irritating if you ever lean your arms on the table.
“We can never allow Murania to become desecrated by the presence of surface people. Our lives are serene, our minds are superior, our accomplishments greater. Gene Autry must be captured!!!” - Queen Tika, The Phantom Empire
I think Adam Savage said something pretty poignant about family and also going off to work on projects alone.
The idea is that you can still be present with family, while still off working on your own. The key is to maintain awareness of what's going on in the family. So long as you show you're aware of everything that's happening, and communicating that awareness, you can be physically separated and working on your own, while still engaged and active with your family.
This concept is important for any professional or hobbyist.
Placed the order for the Butcher Block desk and metal pipe legs today. It's not going to be cheap, but really solid.
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." - Albert Einstein "I don't stand by anything." - Trump “Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stuart Mill, Inaugural Address Delivered to the University of St Andrews, 2/1/1867 “It is the impractical things in this tumultuous hell-scape of a world that matter most. A book, a name, chicken soup. They help us remember that, even in our darkest hour, life is still to be savored.” - Poe, Altered Carbon
What website did you use to buy the table legs from?
I built a table, but I just used 2x4's and two sheets of 4x8 plywood. I even got cheap and instead of buying actual plywood, I used pressboard, and then I painted and polyurethaned the top of it.
I wish I had bought a better piece of plywood, and I think eventually I will. Also, I just built a 'box' for the base out of 2x4's. I didn't even double up the legs, I wish I had, but I didn't, and then placed one sheet of plywood directly on that, then put 2x4's around that piece of plywood, and put a second sheet of plywood on top of that, and screwed it all together.
It looks like a craft table and it is 4x8 and works for gaming. It is also hid in the basement, where no one by my gamer friends are allowed to go, so says the wife. So <shrug> it serves the purpose, and no one really cares if it looks nice, just that it works.
But now one of my friends has a basement(a ton nicer than mine) and wants to build a table. So for some insane reason he thinks I am a resource to help him construct one. I asked if he had seen mine, and he says, that he wants one nicer, but functional is just as good. <shrug> So looking at actual plans, it does not look too hard to make it nice. I have a ton of tools, and nail guns, etc.. So I guess I can make something nicer.
But buying the table legs would be nice as well, so that something on the table could look less industrial.
Difficulties mastered are opportunities won. - Winston Churchill
Sheesh, this is one small box. Thankfully, everything's packed in nicely this time. Not too tight nor too loose (someone's sig in 3, 2, ...). - Hepcat
They are really nice looking, even in knotty pine, which is what I went with (the cheapest option). I really need to get around to staining and sealing mine. I got the giant mousepad in last week. I want to see it all together.
So, I built this over the weekend. Thanks coop for the inspiration.
I started out looking into hardwoods, but even going with basic oak or poplar would have put the bill of materials up around $300. The table legs are the worst, just the sheer amount of wood needed gets pricey.
I ended up building the entire thing out of pine. Table legs were made from two 2x4s glued together, then shaped and tapered on the table saw. Tabletop was basic plywood, framed and edged in finished pine. The playing surface is thin (5mm) plywood wrapped in felt, and is the one thing I'd do differently the second time. Since I wanted a smooth, flat surface for the felt, that plywood sheet just lies flat in the center depression under its own weight. If the felt ever gets worn, or torn, or if I wanted to put a different surface in, I can just lift that sheet out and replace it in 30 seconds. Unfortunately, that sheet of plywood is just slightly bowed, and wants to lift up on one side about an inch. That's what the weights are for, trying to get it to lie flat. I'll likely have to figure something else out. I like the neoprene idea, but the current solution is only $15 vs. the $$$ for the neoprene sheets.
Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, the finish ought to be completely dry today. I built it to accommodate the largest game board I have (Railroad Tycoon) with a couple inches to spare.
My pipe legs arrive this week and the butcher block top arrived on Thirsday. It shipped in days, not weeks, because the manufacturer Edsal is in Chicago's south side.
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." - Albert Einstein "I don't stand by anything." - Trump “Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stuart Mill, Inaugural Address Delivered to the University of St Andrews, 2/1/1867 “It is the impractical things in this tumultuous hell-scape of a world that matter most. A book, a name, chicken soup. They help us remember that, even in our darkest hour, life is still to be savored.” - Poe, Altered Carbon
Boudreaux wrote:So, I built this over the weekend. Thanks coop for the inspiration.
I started out looking into hardwoods, but even going with basic oak or poplar would have put the bill of materials up around $300. The table legs are the worst, just the sheer amount of wood needed gets pricey.
I ended up building the entire thing out of pine. Table legs were made from two 2x4s glued together, then shaped and tapered on the table saw. Tabletop was basic plywood, framed and edged in finished pine. The playing surface is thin (5mm) plywood wrapped in felt, and is the one thing I'd do differently the second time. Since I wanted a smooth, flat surface for the felt, that plywood sheet just lies flat in the center depression under its own weight. If the felt ever gets worn, or torn, or if I wanted to put a different surface in, I can just lift that sheet out and replace it in 30 seconds. Unfortunately, that sheet of plywood is just slightly bowed, and wants to lift up on one side about an inch. That's what the weights are for, trying to get it to lie flat. I'll likely have to figure something else out. I like the neoprene idea, but the current solution is only $15 vs. the $$$ for the neoprene sheets.
Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, the finish ought to be completely dry today. I built it to accommodate the largest game board I have (Railroad Tycoon) with a couple inches to spare.
Dude! You built that in 2 days???? That looks awesome, and those table legs look very nice for being 2x4's. Go you!
Difficulties mastered are opportunities won. - Winston Churchill
Sheesh, this is one small box. Thankfully, everything's packed in nicely this time. Not too tight nor too loose (someone's sig in 3, 2, ...). - Hepcat
Glue down your bowing insert with Rubber Cement - that way you can just seperate it later for replacement. Nice looking table, BTW. Easily better than I could make.
My nephew, Jake - "I mean is there really anything more pure? Than sweet zombie monkey love?"
RMC wrote:Dude! You built that in 2 days???? That looks awesome, and those table legs look very nice for being 2x4's. Go you!
Thanks! Technically three days, I started Friday afternoon. It actually took a lot longer than I expected, but a lot of that time was just thinking about how I wanted it to all go together. I initially planned to put the table legs out at the corners, but when I was mocking up the components to see if I had the right height, I put the legs closer in together and decided I liked that better. So I had to re-do all the measurements for the skirt underneath, but ended up saving some wood as I needed less.
There are a few corners cut to save time. The plywood underneath the trim still has an open unfinished edge, and I only stained what was visible. If you flip it over, the entire underside is still bare wood, but I don't care.
Cylus Maxii wrote:Glue down your bowing insert with Rubber Cement - that way you can just seperate it later for replacement. Nice looking table, BTW. Easily better than I could make.
That's not a bad idea. I was trying to think of a way to use an adhesive that was tacky, but not permanent. Rubber cement might be just the thing. My other idea is to use some little velcro tabs.
I'm kicking myself a bit because I was waffling between thin plywood and MDF/hardboard for that insert. I figured (and still do) that the plywood would be easier to cut, but the hardboard would probably have lain totally flat since it doesn't have the layers of wood to warp. I kind of wish I had gone that route instead.
coopasonic wrote:Looks nice, Boudreaux. Do you have a pic of the underside? I am curious how it's put together.
Sure, it's dead simple. I wanted to keep costs to a minimum, and I also wanted to keep it from being too heavy. I did a pretty basic frame underneath using 1-1/2" square furring strips. This was after attaching the legs through the top of the plywood table top:
Then I built up a narrow table skirt using some 1x6 boards that I ripped into 2.5" widths. I didn't want the skirt to be so big that people bumped their knees on it:
The frame was 1x4 boards cut with 45-deg mitered ends, then glued together with biscuit joints. I rounded off both corners on the outside edge, and the upper corner on the inside edge:
Once the frame was done I stained everything visible underneath, then flipped it over and stained the top. This is what it looks like without the insert. The top surface of the outer frame is 3/4" higher than the inner table top surface. The idea being that the felt-covered insert would be roughly flush, or a bit below, the outer edge. It worked almost perfectly.
I don't know if you RPG, but if you do, grab a sheet of plexiglass the same size as the insert. Lay down a map (or some gaming paper), drop down the plexiglass, and voila - unmovable, spill-resistant map, hex, or square grid that can be drawn on with dry erase markers.
You've nailed my intent - the ability to drop in a variety of interchangeable inserts depending on the situation. We have only dabbled in RPGs, so I'm not sure what else I need at the moment, but the option is there. The fabric surface is (I hope) great for general gaming. The navy blue also shouldn't be half-bad for X-Wing Miniatures. Plexiglass plus maps or other game boards for marking/dry-erase ability. I could even make a finished hardwood surface and use it as an actual table.
85 lbs. of precut pipe and Klee Klamp connectors arrived today. Now I need to find time to assemble the two 60 inch tables and re-arrange the current computer desks.
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." - Albert Einstein "I don't stand by anything." - Trump “Bad men need nothing more to compass their ends, than that good men should look on and do nothing.” - John Stuart Mill, Inaugural Address Delivered to the University of St Andrews, 2/1/1867 “It is the impractical things in this tumultuous hell-scape of a world that matter most. A book, a name, chicken soup. They help us remember that, even in our darkest hour, life is still to be savored.” - Poe, Altered Carbon
Another really nice gaming table project posted on BGG. Complete with plans and step-by-step instructions. This is the kind of for-reals game table I'd like to build someday. I'm amazed that he claims to have built that out of red oak for $200 though. He must have a ridiculously cheap source of hardwood, it looks like quite a bit of lumber.
A friend of mine is into woodworking and is planning on making one of these to replace his breakfast nook table. I'll send him the link from that last post. I think he wants drawers in his, but he could probably modify it.
He's going to make a 1-inch grid inlay that is dry erase so that we can map/combat directly on the table without pulling out extra mats.
He's also planning on building a couple of dice towers that collapse and store inside it.
