Home Projects (upkeep/repair/mods/cool sh*t/advice/question)

LawBeefaroni · Post by **LawBeefaroni** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:20 am

Any grout tips? Anything in general but expecially advice on any newfangled materials out there?

It's probably time for bath/shower grout in 2 bathrooms. I did it last time (so I'm not a complete rookie) and it's lasted 9 years or so but I'd like to freshen it up. I just don't remember what kind of grout I bought and it seems like there's all sorts of new stuff available.

malchior · Post by **malchior** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:49 am

My spring projects are pretty tame compared to last year:

Raised garden - I installed one 4'x4' raised garden in the corner of my back yard and have another ready to go - my wife started some vegetables/fruits indoors and is looking to transfer them out in the next week or two.

Lawn - My lawn is a total mess - it wasn't great last year and this winter was especially brutal. It is patchy - especially in the back so I thatched the whole thing - and just sent out soil for testing. After I get back the remediations I will likely put down seed but we are essentially in a drought so I'll really have to irrigate like crazy. I did some tests and coverage is pretty bad in spots so I have the sprinkler guy stopping in tomorrow to consult.

Backyard theater - New Patio furniture (10 piece wicker set), 12' diag. 16x9 outdoor movie screen and projector have been procured. I have not been able to test any of it because I have essentially one convenient spot to set up that'll have good vantage points and it is cluttered with about two dozen 18" to 24" tree rounds from trees that fell during Sandy or were removed shortly thereafter. I was targeting splitting one or two rounds a week but got 2 done last night by just quartering the rounds with splitting wedges and then using an electric log splitter to finish it off so I might be able to get it to a point where I can clear the spot and hold off until next year since I'm piling up an upsetting amount of wood. About a wheelbarrow a round. I had the firepit going about a week ago and used about 1/8 of a round and have split 6 since I started. I'm never going to get through the wood I've split much less the massive amount of wood piled along my fence. Might have to chip it or something eventually but I don't have any real familiarity around how to go about it.

Backyard mulch beds - I have a lot of mulch bed covereage in front and back. Last year I did the entire front and some of the back. It was a helluva ton of work and I ended up having a landscaper do the back since I needed a bunch of other work done due to the winter. They did an excellent job and aside from the side yards now I have everything all set. Hopefully next year I'll just be able to get 10 yards dropped off and top it all up.

Cancelled projects: I was going to convert over to a salt water pool but that got kiboshed by mulch and backyard theater project.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 12:49 pm

LawBeefaroni wrote:Any grout tips? Anything in general but expecially advice on any newfangled materials out there?

It's probably time for bath/shower grout in 2 bathrooms. I did it last time (so I'm not a complete rookie) and it's lasted 9 years or so but I'd like to freshen it up. I just don't remember what kind of grout I bought and it seems like there's all sorts of new stuff available.

Here's my tip: if you can get grout in a shower to last 9 years before needing to be replaced, DO THE EXACT SAME THING YOU DID LAST TIME. That's amazing. Either that, or I am seriously doing something wrong.

EDIT: scratch that, my brain saw "caulk" for some reason, instead of "grout" as written. Sorry, no tips for grout.

Zarathud · Post by **Zarathud** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:23 pm

Been ignoring the grout and caulk for 9 years since we've been planning on a 100% gutting of both bathrooms that entire time. This year may be when we finally empty out the bank accounts to get it done.

LawBeefaroni · Post by **LawBeefaroni** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:28 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote:
Here's my tip: if you can get grout in a shower to last 9 years before needing to be replaced, DO THE EXACT SAME THING YOU DID LAST TIME. That's amazing. Either that, or I am seriously doing something wrong.

EDIT: scratch that, my brain saw "caulk" for some reason, instead of "grout" as written. Sorry, no tips for grout.

Yeah, I caulked/sealed around the outside (where the floor meets the tub, etc) and that's holding up too, but grout for all the interior edges. These were lesser used baths but now with the kiddo have been seeing a lot more use and splashing.

In reading, caulk is recommended because it won't crack when the weight of the tub shifts but I haven't had that problem with the grout. We used caulk in the shower and it fades and mildews much faster that grout. Going to read up more on the pros/cons of both.

malchior · Post by **malchior** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:32 pm

I was going to suggest caulk too - especially in corners. I have floor to ceiling tile in one of my bathrooms and the corners all separated and the consensus I got to repair it was silicon-based caulk. I found it in a color that generally matches the original caulk.

I have loose tiles in my kitchen and I have no idea how to fix them. I guess I'll have to lift them, clean off all the old grout and re-do it but I don't have any real experience doing it. Consequently I just grimace when I step on the loose tiles and try to ignore it.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:32 pm

LawBeefaroni wrote:In reading, caulk is recommended because it won't crack when the weight of the tub shifts

Then my last apartment complex didn't know what they were doing, as the caulk was replaced a few times because the tub movement was so extreme or the caulk was so lousy that it would pull itself apart in short order.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:41 pm

Isgrimnur wrote:
LawBeefaroni wrote:In reading, caulk is recommended because it won't crack when the weight of the tub shifts
Then my last apartment complex didn't know what they were doing, as the caulk was replaced a few times because the tub movement was so extreme or the caulk was so lousy that it would pull itself apart in short order.

I have been told by people who know that one thing you don't skimp on, is caulk (and have followed that advice myself for years). When you buy it, get the most expensive version for your needs, preferably in almost all cases, 100% silicon. The cheap stuff just IS NOT as good. For the $5 or less extra in cost, definitely worth it in my book, not having to redo a job sooner than I normally would.

Also, it's crucial to let that stuff set for at least 24 hours before anyone steps in, or turns water on. They probably did not let it cure long enough before use.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:45 pm

If they were using my shower inside the 24 hours, I have bigger issues than their cheap caulk.

em2nought · Post by **em2nought** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 2:00 am

LawBeefaroni wrote:Any grout tips?

If I was to ever grout something again I would seriously consider using epoxy grout. I don't really want to have to seal grout every year, and it shows.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed May 14, 2014 11:39 am

And the ridiculous wallpaper continues...

Removing the wallpaper from various rooms has actually been rather easy - it strips nicely from the backing paper. My initial tests for removing the backing paper in our bedroom also seemed to work great with the use of a spray bottle, enzyme digester and a putty knife.

Until the bathroom.

After spraying the backing paper it turns a muted green color, allowing the wall surface to peek through. I thought it was odd that they painted the bathroom walls such an awful color but then after scraping quickly realized it wasn't paint at all but unpainted green drywall. To repeat - they put up wallpaper over unsized walls. WTF??? So now instead of peeling the backing paper from a painted surface I'm peeling backing paper from goddamn drywall paper. I might as well rip off the sheetrock down to the studs and start over. Holy crap I'm going to murder someone.

EvilHomer3k · Post by **EvilHomer3k** » Wed May 14, 2014 2:32 pm

You're screwed. Rip the drywall out and start over. Greenboard is mold and mildew resistant. If you don't rip it out you may end up with a mess (and possible health issues from mold) later on. It may be easier than messing with the wallpaper, too.

Another option could work if you have only just done an area at the bottom. You could paint the wallpaper (or cover it with new) and put up wainscoting on the bottom. I guess you could wallpaper the whole thing.

Finally, you could try putting paintable wallpaper over the top of everything.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed May 14, 2014 4:37 pm

Unfortunately, I'm not a handy guy. Ripping out sheetrock and hanging new pieces is beyond what I'm capable of. So 5 hours later a little over half the bathroom is now down to the greenboard. I was using that enzyme digester (Pirahana from Lowe's) but I think vinegar and hot water worked much better. I'm not sure if the glue was salad based or there was some type of crazy post-enzyme chemical reaction taking place but I'm going to just try vinegar on the remaining sides.

Then comes the sanding and skim coating...then priming. Then we get to argue about what shade of white I'm willing to paint it.

My goal was to get the walls all done in preparation for a complete new bathroom for my wife's upcoming 40th birthday present...but at this rate just getting the walls painted will be a project.

If I had the previous homeowner's new phone number I'd seriously call them and ask what the f they were thinking.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Wed May 14, 2014 5:40 pm

EvilHomer3k wrote:You're screwed. Rip the drywall out and start over. Greenboard is mold and mildew resistant.

Why rip it out? I think that's extreme. I think people have stopped using it not because it's actually causing problems in existing construction, but that it doesn't do what it's supposed to so well (mold/mildew resistance). It's literally just wax coated drywall IIRC, so no harm in keeping it (esp in a bathroom...now if it were in a shower or bath, yes maybe).

I wonder if a heavy layer of primer would work? Then paint.

Zarathud · Post by **Zarathud** » Wed May 14, 2014 5:46 pm

Agree -- the last thing you want to do is redo the walls after messing up the greenboard when removing the wallpaper. Demolition is easier, anyway.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Wed May 14, 2014 6:27 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote:I wonder if a heavy layer of primer would work? Then paint.

Now that I know the walls were never primed, I'm considering leaving the backing paper up on the other half of the bathroom and priming right onto it in hopes that it would just soak through and into the greenboard. I'd have to speak with a paint person to make sure it wouldn't pull the backing paper away or if I need to use a special kind of primer but yeah, I'm looking into it.

EvilHomer3k · Post by **EvilHomer3k** » Wed May 14, 2014 10:22 pm

If the paper is coming off you can't paint it and expect decent results. Skim coating might work, though. If the paper isn't coming off he's probably fine.

If it were me and the paper came off I'd try paintable wallpaper and then, when that didn't work, I'd try skim coating. Then, when that didn't work, I'd rip it out. In the end, I'd end up doing three times more work than just ripping it out to begin with.

malchior · Post by **malchior** » Mon May 19, 2014 8:17 am

This weekend's project was getting ready to open the black lagoon in my backyard. We have gotten tons of rain over the last few weeks so I needed to lower the water level. I pryed out all the winterizing plugs and fired up the pump and it is squealing like hell - it was operating but I think people must have heard it a half mile away. Sounds like the bearings in the motor going so I disassembled it this morning to make sure it wasn't debris in the motor housing and just decided to order a new motor off Amazon. I also managed to snap off the watertight conduit at the end that goes into the ground so I need to figure out how to fix that but the watertight nut is fine so I'm guessing just a new run of the conduit or I could possibly tape the whole thing and silicone it to death. I don't know what is going to be easier. Not a good start to the season; I was angling to have the pool ready for this weekend but that is looking unlikely now. If I'm lucky I'll get this all cleaned up tomorrow but then I need to fully open and it isn't looking too great. Losing two days running the filter might crimp the timeline - though the water might be too cold anyway and it won't matter much either way. Still it would be nice to have the option.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Mon May 19, 2014 8:36 am

I am going to be finishing up the bathroom, starting this weekend. <sigh>

I am down to studs on all the walls, and have the new sub-floor in. I have to finish the electrical run(three new lights, several outlets, and baseboard heating. Already finished the ceiling fan, and the cans for overhead lighting.) , and then finish the new plumbing to the second sink we added, and the change in location for the shower plumbing.

Then put in new drywall, on the ceiling, which is going to be the hardest, and the walls. <sigh>

But I moved the toilet already, and that meant I had to cut the stack, and ran new drain and supply lines from where we moved the existing sink too.

Gutting a bathroom seemed like a good idea, but now I just want to pay someone to do all the rest of the work.

But with 3 girls, I wanted to make sure that the bathroom that they would share would have at least two sinks, and plenty of storage. Luckily we have 3 bathrooms, so taking one down for a little while is not the end of the world.

Growing up with parents that owned rental property certainly has given me a wide skill set, but sometimes I wish I could just say, I have no idea how to do something, so we could just pay a person.

Also, there are three outdoor projects for this year:

1) build a walkway to our main steps, currently just a dirt path.
2) Put up a small fenced in area for our dog. Not too big, but more than a weekend job.
3) (not sure I can do this one) Build a retaining wall and put in drainage for the entrance to my basement door. (I can dig up what I need to fix/replace the drain system, since my house was built pre-1900, so no drainage by this part of the basement, or it collapsed) But building a 4 ft high retaining wall on both sides of the entrance I think needs a little engineering, and while I think I understand what needs to be done, and can do it I want it to last.

So those are my summer projects. Fun and exciting!

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Mon May 19, 2014 9:50 am

RMC wrote:Growing up with parents that owned rental property certainly has given me a wide skill set, but sometimes I wish I could just say, I have no idea how to do something, so we could just pay a person.

My Dad used to take care of all but the heaviest of car maintenance. He's been in aircraft maintenance since he was 18, and a gearhead before that. There's nothing on a car he doesn't know how to do. Oil changes, spark plugs, replacing the battery, alternator, etc. He got to a certain point where he made a decision that the trouble of doing it himself was more than paying a pro to do it. It's a balance of your time vs. your money.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Mon May 19, 2014 9:54 am

I will chime in to add some self motivation (like the weight loss thread - putting it down "on paper" makes the goal somehow seem more real):

Late spring/early summer projects/to dos:
1. Go around and prune off all the dead limbs damage to plants and trees from our unusually cold winter (1/2 day job?)
2. Put Termidor concentrate I bought online last year around perimeter of house (hopefully not expired, that shit was EXPENSIVE) 1/2 day
If you are interested: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZU ... UTF8&psc=1
3. "Borax" pool project 1/4 day and clean SWG cel
4. replace all smoke detectors in house 1/2 day
5. paint kitchen 2 days
6. finish painting eldest daughter's bathroom 1/2 day
7. replace install final exterior flood/motion light on deck (2 hours)

That's enough for now. Probably being overly generous with the time, but I almost always UNDER estimate time needed, so probably for the best.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Mon Feb 23, 2015 1:54 pm

So I have a small leak in the basement(not finished) and I think I am just going to get some hydraulic cement and fill in the hole. This is a very old house, over 100 years old, and I need to redo the drainage around the house, but only have one income currently. So I figured for 20 bucks, I could patch the hole and while it is not going to fix the problem, it will contain the issue for a few years until my wife gets back to work and we can afford the more costly repair of the outside drainage system.

Anyone ever used this type of cement or done this repair. It looks simple enough, and it's only 20 bucks for a bucket of the stuff, but I am worried that I might be creating a bigger issue by doing this patch then solving.

This is not a finished basement, and the leak is in a corner where a little crack has appeared and is at the floor and wall. So I think if I patch it, then it will be fine. This is not a ton of water, only a little trickle, but I would like to get rid of it.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:13 pm

RMC wrote:So I have a small leak in the basement(not finished) and I think I am just going to get some hydraulic cement and fill in the hole. This is a very old house, over 100 years old, and I need to redo the drainage around the house, but only have one income currently. So I figured for 20 bucks, I could patch the hole and while it is not going to fix the problem, it will contain the issue for a few years until my wife gets back to work and we can afford the more costly repair of the outside drainage system.

Anyone ever used this type of cement or done this repair. It looks simple enough, and it's only 20 bucks for a bucket of the stuff, but I am worried that I might be creating a bigger issue by doing this patch then solving.

This is not a finished basement, and the leak is in a corner where a little crack has appeared and is at the floor and wall. So I think if I patch it, then it will be fine. This is not a ton of water, only a little trickle, but I would like to get rid of it.

We used this on our last house, and it definitely worked (massive amounts of rain about a week after we did it). I didn't seal it myself, but fairly straightforward project.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:18 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote:
RMC wrote:So I have a small leak in the basement(not finished) and I think I am just going to get some hydraulic cement and fill in the hole. This is a very old house, over 100 years old, and I need to redo the drainage around the house, but only have one income currently. So I figured for 20 bucks, I could patch the hole and while it is not going to fix the problem, it will contain the issue for a few years until my wife gets back to work and we can afford the more costly repair of the outside drainage system.

Anyone ever used this type of cement or done this repair. It looks simple enough, and it's only 20 bucks for a bucket of the stuff, but I am worried that I might be creating a bigger issue by doing this patch then solving.

This is not a finished basement, and the leak is in a corner where a little crack has appeared and is at the floor and wall. So I think if I patch it, then it will be fine. This is not a ton of water, only a little trickle, but I would like to get rid of it.
We used this on our last house, and it definitely worked (massive amounts of rain about a week after we did it). I didn't seal it myself, but fairly straightforward project.

Cool, nice to hear that someone has used it and had it work.

malchior · Post by **malchior** » Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:19 pm

I used it before as well and can't tell if it worked or not since it required unreasonable amounts of rain to leak (very bottom of foundation straight into french drain).

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:35 pm

RMC wrote:
Carpet_pissr wrote:
RMC wrote:So I have a small leak in the basement(not finished) and I think I am just going to get some hydraulic cement and fill in the hole. This is a very old house, over 100 years old, and I need to redo the drainage around the house, but only have one income currently. So I figured for 20 bucks, I could patch the hole and while it is not going to fix the problem, it will contain the issue for a few years until my wife gets back to work and we can afford the more costly repair of the outside drainage system.

Anyone ever used this type of cement or done this repair. It looks simple enough, and it's only 20 bucks for a bucket of the stuff, but I am worried that I might be creating a bigger issue by doing this patch then solving.

This is not a finished basement, and the leak is in a corner where a little crack has appeared and is at the floor and wall. So I think if I patch it, then it will be fine. This is not a ton of water, only a little trickle, but I would like to get rid of it.
We used this on our last house, and it definitely worked (massive amounts of rain about a week after we did it). I didn't seal it myself, but fairly straightforward project.
Cool, nice to hear that someone has used it and had it work.

Pretty sure we used this if it helps: http://www.drylok.com/formulas/latex-ba ... erproofer/ Lots and lots of 5 gal drums of that stuff IIRC.

Zarathud · Post by **Zarathud** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:55 am

Worth a try.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:37 pm

So the hydraulic cement worked. It was a pain, but fairly cheap and seems to be keeping the water out.

I bought a little bucket of the stuff for like 7 bucks. It is a powder, and you have to mix it, 3 parts powder 1 part water. Use cold water to make it set slower. <shrug> That what the directions say anyway.

I mixed up a bunch of the gunk, and then filled all the cracks and little holes. I first cleaned the holes, and expanded some of them, so that they were a V shape that was easier to fill.

The stuff set-up pretty quick, and looks okay in the parts that I filled. I had some extra as I made too much, so I used it around some of the windows that had some old cracks appearing around that never leaked or allowed air in, but what the heck, I had the stuff.

So anyone that might need to do this in the future, it's pretty easy, and was cheap as well.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Thu May 21, 2015 12:30 pm

Latest/current project:

Get rid of "big black monsters" (tower speakers) in living room, replace with subwoofer, and in wall speakers. Mount said speakers in wall (surprise!), mount TV to wall, hide all cables. Paint room.

This project is at week 2 currently...I am soooo slow sometimes, but I keep running into hiccups with this one. HDMI handshaking issues AND a bad HDMI cable whilst doing a project like this do not exactly help. Just troubleshooting that one took several days.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Thu May 21, 2015 12:34 pm

I was reading a reddit thing from a trainer for networking issues, and one piece of advise that stood out for me is to never trust that the cables. Most people take it for granted that cables always work.

TheMix · Post by **TheMix** » Thu May 21, 2015 12:38 pm

Got a tentative CO yesterday on the addition. So we can start moving some stuff in.

Still have to fix a couple things and then get the outside cleaned up. Too much rain and mud prevented them from signing off on the outside.

But it's a huge relief. The light at the end of the tunnel just moved a lot closer...

stessier · Post by **stessier** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:17 pm

This weekend I repaired my windshield wiper transmission (not a home thing, but I did it while at home so I'm counting it). I was very proud of this as the parts were only $30 and it took me 3 hours (including 45 minute trip to the store for another plastic rivet), but it really wasn't that hard and is the first real car thing I've ever done.

I started to install an OTA antenna in my attic. Took about 2 hours to get everything setup to drill through the top plate on the wall that leads to my bedroom - and then I found that my 4.5" bit wasn't long enough. Apparently there are three 2x4s in this part. Hope to finish that next weekend.

Because the next two days I'm building walls around my flower gardens. I've done a bunch of reading up and think I know what to do. I'm going to dig a trench, use pavers sand to make a bed, then lay two courses of the stones (just stacked, no adhesive). I have centipede grass on red clay, though, so I anticipate getting the 5-6" depth is going to be a nightmare. Any suggestions on that would be great. And how to keep the grass from growing into the beds from under the stone...

Jeff V · Post by **Jeff V** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:22 pm

I learned a long time ago that copper sulfate is a good preventative for any unwanted greenery. It does an excellent job too on wanted greenery.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 5:14 pm

stessier wrote:centipede grass on red clay, though, so I anticipate getting the 5-6" depth is going to be a nightmare. Any suggestions on that would be great. And how to keep the grass from growing into the beds from under the stone...

Root cutter end of a mattock.

The pro way to keep weeds and grass from creeping into a bed is to use commercial (not the stuff you find at Lowe's unfortunately) black landscape fabric, and double or even triple that stuff up, so you have at least two layers over the bed...making especially sure that on the edges, it's REALLY thick, thicker than you think it should be.

I found this in ALL my beds in my yard when we moved into my current house, and stupid me removed them out of maybe half, because they are a pain when you want to plant something new. You have to cut with a razor blade basically, and it can get very messy, the fabric can stick out, etc.

BUT that stuff WORKS. No grass, and only very easy to pull top level weeds. Every bed where I removed that stuff now has grass constantly threatening the edges and I have to use an edger on deep cut settings every year (2x) to keep it clear. I wish I had never removed it.

Other option is to use REALLY deep edging..like the metal stuff that goes down 10" or more into the ground...less than that and it will just go under it (maybe even deeper). I've seen my Empire Zoysia (which is similar to centipede) go way way underground to get around obstacles.

And of course finally, you can just spray anything that gets in the bed with Roundup, but I personally prefer preventative measures (when they work of course).

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 10:34 pm

We have a breach in Zone 3! Repeat, we have a breach in Zone 3!

Sprinkler test was going well until I discovered low pressure and a mound of turf burbling away. Fun times ahead.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 7:41 am

Reminds me I should do that check as well.

Usually not fun to dig those out, but I will admit to a strangely outsized sense of satisfaction when I put a new head in.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 7:45 am

I am finishing up my bathroom. Been working on it for about 2 years. We gutted the entire thing down to the studs and took out the tub and replaced it with a shower, moved the toilet, moved the sink, and added a new sink.

I am finally to the drywall mudding stage, all the electrical, plumbing, and carpentry work is done. I also have discovered as I make more money that I really do not enjoy these types of activities any longer, and really just want to pay someone to do it. But having a professional come in behind me and look and laugh at my work is not something I want to subject myself too.

Ah well, at least I do everything to code now and really do a pretty good job, it just takes me a loooonnngggg time.

Carpet_pissr · Post by **Carpet_pissr** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:53 am

Nice! Pics?

I guess that saved you about...$12K? Was just discussing bathroom remodel prices with a buddy who is considering buying a house that needs all 3 bathrooms remodeled. I estimated about $35K (knowing that he is picky, likes high quality fit and finish, etc). And then add another $5K on top knowing that you always go over.

RMC · Post by **RMC** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 4:05 pm

Carpet_pissr wrote:Nice! Pics?

I guess that saved you about...$12K? Was just discussing bathroom remodel prices with a buddy who is considering buying a house that needs all 3 bathrooms remodeled. I estimated about $35K (knowing that he is picky, likes high quality fit and finish, etc). And then add another $5K on top knowing that you always go over.

The few quotes I got were all over the place, so the wife and I just went and priced out the fixtures, drywall, and Flooring and added 50% to that for our budget. It was pretty close to that, of course labor is all free.

When I am done, I'll post a bunch of pics with before and afters.

stessier · Post by **stessier** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 9:00 am

Carpet_pissr wrote:
stessier wrote:centipede grass on red clay, though, so I anticipate getting the 5-6" depth is going to be a nightmare. Any suggestions on that would be great. And how to keep the grass from growing into the beds from under the stone...
Root cutter end of a mattock.

The pro way to keep weeds and grass from creeping into a bed is to use commercial (not the stuff you find at Lowe's unfortunately) black landscape fabric, and double or even triple that stuff up, so you have at least two layers over the bed...making especially sure that on the edges, it's REALLY thick, thicker than you think it should be.

I found this in ALL my beds in my yard when we moved into my current house, and stupid me removed them out of maybe half, because they are a pain when you want to plant something new. You have to cut with a razor blade basically, and it can get very messy, the fabric can stick out, etc.

BUT that stuff WORKS. No grass, and only very easy to pull top level weeds. Every bed where I removed that stuff now has grass constantly threatening the edges and I have to use an edger on deep cut settings every year (2x) to keep it clear. I wish I had never removed it.

Other option is to use REALLY deep edging..like the metal stuff that goes down 10" or more into the ground...less than that and it will just go under it (maybe even deeper). I've seen my Empire Zoysia (which is similar to centipede) go way way underground to get around obstacles.

And of course finally, you can just spray anything that gets in the bed with Roundup, but I personally prefer preventative measures (when they work of course).

Thanks for the suggestion, but I had done some reading before and decided to skip the fabric. The fact that weeds can just root right into it was the deciding factor.

I just spent the past two days building walls and am just beat. I still have about a day, maybe a day and a half to go. I got a wall up around the tree in the front yard, but the flower bed turns out to be on a slope (only about 6 inches, but that makes all the difference) and it took me a while to figure out how to do it - plus the trench is about 3x as long as the one around the tree. We only have a minivan at I can only carry about 25 stones at a time. The tree took 48 and I've already but 50 in for the flower bed - probably another 50-75 to go. The description says they are 20 lbs each and, if I'm lucky enough to get them level on the first try, I have to lift them 4x each. I think I've been lucky 5x, so I lifted a ton of bricks. At least it was relatively cool out - 55-65F. The first day I forgot sunscreen, which made that night unpleasant - otherwise it went okay. I really hope it looks good when I'm finished - I'd hate to have done all this only to have to pay someone to fix it.