Octopus Overlords

I need to put up a shelf. Specifically, I want to hang a long board from the ceiling, so cats can walk on it.

but I am having trouble locating the hardware. I need something that can attach to the ceiling, and be able to support weight. Not cables, because I don't want any sway. I imagine in my head some sort of U . possibly made out of pipe or some other brackets.

A couple of anchors that attach securely to the ceiling (drilling through up to the cross beams). Then vertical supports hanging from the anchors, and a horizontal cross piece, at the bottom of the vertical posts. A series of these across the room, each hanging from a separate ceiling cross beam, with a long wooden board running across the horizontal pieces.

the trouble is, I can't think of the proper technical terms for any of those bits, which means I can't find them on the internet shopping.

can ya'll think of the proper names for the pieces I need?

My parents once rented out the basement apartment to a guy who used threaded steel rods to hang a shelf from the ceiling that then supported his stereo equipment. Worked well for maybe a year or so...then failed spectacularly. Chances are though your cat will do a better job landing on its feet should the same occur.

Jaymon wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 3:45 pm I need to put up a shelf. Specifically, I want to hang a long board from the ceiling, so cats can walk on it.

but I am having trouble locating the hardware. I need something that can attach to the ceiling, and be able to support weight. Not cables, because I don't want any sway. I imagine in my head some sort of U . possibly made out of pipe or some other brackets.

A couple of anchors that attach securely to the ceiling (drilling through up to the cross beams). Then vertical supports hanging from the anchors, and a horizontal cross piece, at the bottom of the vertical posts. A series of these across the room, each hanging from a separate ceiling cross beam, with a long wooden board running across the horizontal pieces.

the trouble is, I can't think of the proper technical terms for any of those bits, which means I can't find them on the internet shopping.

can ya'll think of the proper names for the pieces I need?

Something like this?

yes, like that, but I am searching for a way to buy those pipe things individually, so I can construct my own version.

Head to Home Depot to the galvanized pipe section. Get plans for a pipe desk, then flip it and mount it to the ceiling. Use the "floor" flanges to mount to joists.

Here is such a desk. If you go to the Fittings drop down on this page, you'll probably get way more than you ever wanted to know.

Use Klee Klamps if you want a pipe desk or bear much weight.

Jaymon wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 3:45 pm be able to support weight. Not cables, because I don't want any sway. I imagine in my head some sort of U .

I think you could do it cheap with some Simpson Strong Tie material. You could just put a few bends in these to make something plenty sturdy enough for cats. https://www.lowes.com/pd/USP-36-in-20-G ... ap/3691968 Make four bends to form a "U" shape with feet.

If I had a cat I'd want to go the full monty after looking at this book https://www.amazon.com/Cats-House-Bob-W ... oks&sr=1-1 The guy practically turns his house into Disney Land for cats.

Jaymon wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2019 3:45 pm I need to put up a shelf. Specifically, I want to hang a long board from the ceiling, so cats can walk on it.

These usually go in the garage, but you can mount them anywhere with a beam, I guess.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Storage-Org ... 5yc1vZccyy

oh thats another good one. I saw those, but they didn't click with me at first, but now I see that some of them are adjustable.



thanks everybody

Based on that , I stopped searching for shelving suppliers, and instead searched for pipe.

GeilSpace (and others) make precut threaded pipes and connectors. I got a stack of 18" x 1/2" pipe (prepainted), elbow connectors, and flanges.
So that turned out to be simple, once I stopped thinking about shelving.

I have got a detailed plan drawn up, next step is to pick up some boards, and then start drilling holes in the ceiling!

Jaymon wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:26 pm start drilling holes in the ceiling!

Make sure you've checked what's on the other side.

Bought the wrong kind of LED replacement tubes for my flourescent lights. Turns out there are a couple different kinds. Single end vs. dual end power, ballast-bypass-required (aka direct wire) vs. ballast compatible vs. hybrid/universal, and that's not even counting the actual size of the tubes (T8/T10/T12) and length and color temp and lumens output. I apparently bought the direct wire kind when I should have bought the ballast-compatible kind (that I bought in Lowe's before). Accidentally destroyed one of the four tubes (melted the plug on one side). Had to order another set, this time the right one.

And it's surprising how cheap these LED tubes are nowadays. AmazonBasics brand of 12 tubes is only like $27. I know I paid like $9 each at Lowes for Phillips brand of roughly the same LED replacement tubes.

EDIT: Must have been on sale or something, price went up to like $36 for 12, which is still MUCH MUCH cheaper than retail prices.

I diagnosed that my washer door latch had gone bad, found a 2:00 Youtube video of the fix, acquired the part, and spent 15 minutes successfully completing the repair. I am abnormally proud of this accomplishment.

stessier wrote: ↑Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:23 pm I diagnosed that my washer door latch had gone bad, found a 2:00 Youtube video of the fix, acquired the part, and spent 15 minutes successfully completing the repair. I am abnormally proud of this accomplishment.

Or you could have just removed the switch, stripped the wires, and tied them together with a wire nut. Then you can do laundry with the door open, wouldn't be a good thing on front loaders though. LOL

Anybody know air-conditioning behavior?

Our AC works fine, but our air distribution is off. Thermostat is in the middle so the rooms in question on either end of the house.
If we set the thermostat at 72 the end rooms are 65-67
If we set 73 we end up @74.
What I think is happening: the thermostat is right next to a stairwell. Upstairs is just one large room that we rarely use so we leave the temp @ 80. I think we've created a heat bubble that touches the thermostat and makes it cool the end rooms. In order to get itself down. Assuming thats the case are we saving money putting the extra work downstairs or should we cool the upstairs.

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Are your vents closable? If so, check the hot zones to see if the vents might be closed.

Jeff V wrote:Are your vents closable? If so, check the hot zones to see if the vents might be closed.

They are not and the returns are such that they pull air away from the thermostat. If the house is divided in thirds on a line all air flows towards the split points. The thermostat is dead center.


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I have found the electric bill cheaper by having window units in the bed rooms on each end of the house and shutting off the vents on the ends of the house (and leaving the doors open) and letting the central A/C cool the middle than letting the central A/C cool the house by itself.

dbt1949 wrote:I have found the electric bill cheaper by having window units in the bed rooms on each end of the house and shutting off the vents on the ends of the house (and leaving the doors open) and letting the central A/C cool the middle than letting the central A/C cool the house by itself.

Interesting. Thanks

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Window units aren't very efficient. You'd do better by adding mini splits. The initial cost is higher though.

I had never heard of that so i looked it up. It would cost as much as a new central A/C.
So yes, the initial cost would be more.

dbt1949 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:36 am I had never heard of that so i looked it up. It would cost as much as a new central A/C.
So yes, the initial cost would be more.

You didn't look in the right place. I've bought several brand new units off craigslist for reasonable prices. I've seen one that would replace a window unit for around $350

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/pp ... 80324.html

I was looking at Home Depot.
I was also looking at two units.

If you want to go REALLY cheap, add evap coolers INSTEAD of AC units. Basically sprays a tiny spritz of water periodically into the room in the middle of fan air pattern. FEELS cooler but may not be good for humidity.

One of my Geothermal units died last week. Had a repair man come out spend 5 minutes to tell me I need to spend 1k on a repair and scheudle it for next week. Well, this week, since it happened last week. Had to wait 4 days for him to show up to tell me that. And spent 100 on the 5 minute visit to tell me what was wrong.

Sigh... So no AC for over a week.

Contractor: "I'll be there around 5pm"
Contractor (at 6:25pm) "I'm running a little late, I'll see you about 7pm."

Ok, you can come over and take a look but you're not getting the job. Why? Why are they all like this?

Got to climb on the roof and sweep the debris off the back area. Then wash the siding. Then paint the spots that need a touch up. Finally saw and fit a new piece of wood along the chimney where varmits have made their way in. Also need to repair the mower and mow.

I did recharge my car's AC today. Going to try the mower in a few min. Had to get a cheap impact driver. I went to some pawn shops and they were high as new and had no chargers. The tool rental place was almost as high as new also. Said F it I get new and keep it for that one or two times in my life Ill need it. I bought so cheap as it may be too cheap to work.

Our dishwasher died last night. The cycle had finished but the water pump continued to run. I unplugged it all night and it still tried running as soon as I plugged it in. This seems to indicate it is the control board...a $163 investment. The washer is 8 years old.

We went looking and really want a Bosch 300, 500, or 800 series. The only one in stock is the 300 but with controls on the front rather than top. We really prefer top because of where it is in our kitchen and how easy it is to hit the buttons. Ordering any of them likely means waiting to somewhere between March and April.

So I ordered the part. If it fixes it, then we'll place our order for our preferred replacement and sell our current one when the new one comes in. If it doesn't fix it, we have to decide if we are going to hand wash for five months or are willing to settle for the front button model.

If the dishwasher breaks it means Im broken.

stessier wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:29 pm Our dishwasher died last night. The cycle had finished but the water pump continued to run. I unplugged it all night and it still tried running as soon as I plugged it in. This seems to indicate it is the control board...a $163 investment. The washer is 8 years old.

We went looking and really want a Bosch 300, 500, or 800 series. The only one in stock is the 300 but with controls on the front rather than top. We really prefer top because of where it is in our kitchen and how easy it is to hit the buttons. Ordering any of them likely means waiting to somewhere between March and April.

So I ordered the part. If it fixes it, then we'll place our order for our preferred replacement and sell our current one when the new one comes in. If it doesn't fix it, we have to decide if we are going to hand wash for five months or are willing to settle for the front button model.

We got a 500 not long ago and are very happy with it so far.

gbasden wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:14 am

stessier wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:29 pm Our dishwasher died last night. The cycle had finished but the water pump continued to run. I unplugged it all night and it still tried running as soon as I plugged it in. This seems to indicate it is the control board...a $163 investment. The washer is 8 years old.

We went looking and really want a Bosch 300, 500, or 800 series. The only one in stock is the 300 but with controls on the front rather than top. We really prefer top because of where it is in our kitchen and how easy it is to hit the buttons. Ordering any of them likely means waiting to somewhere between March and April.

So I ordered the part. If it fixes it, then we'll place our order for our preferred replacement and sell our current one when the new one comes in. If it doesn't fix it, we have to decide if we are going to hand wash for five months or are willing to settle for the front button model.

We got a 500 not long ago and are very happy with it so far.

Cool! Do you find it as quiet as they say? The other complaint I've seen is that things don't get very dry - but I'm not sure that would really bother me as I was already drying things that I took out of our current (broken) one.

stessier wrote:

gbasden wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:14 am

stessier wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:29 pm Our dishwasher died last night. The cycle had finished but the water pump continued to run. I unplugged it all night and it still tried running as soon as I plugged it in. This seems to indicate it is the control board...a $163 investment. The washer is 8 years old.

We went looking and really want a Bosch 300, 500, or 800 series. The only one in stock is the 300 but with controls on the front rather than top. We really prefer top because of where it is in our kitchen and how easy it is to hit the buttons. Ordering any of them likely means waiting to somewhere between March and April.

So I ordered the part. If it fixes it, then we'll place our order for our preferred replacement and sell our current one when the new one comes in. If it doesn't fix it, we have to decide if we are going to hand wash for five months or are willing to settle for the front button model.

We got a 500 not long ago and are very happy with it so far.

Cool! Do you find it as quiet as they say? The other complaint I've seen is that things don't get very dry - but I'm not sure that would really bother me as I was already drying things that I took out of our current (broken) one.

We've had an 800-series for six years and its been great. Dishes are clean every time, and it really is as quiet as advertised. Our model has the controls on top of the door and a red light that shines on the floor when it's running. Without that light, you could barely tell it's running for most of a cycle. The downside, however, is drying. They achieve energy efficiency by not including a heating element for drying. Instead, the unit holds residual heat from the hot water and relies on that to slowly dry the dishes. That means a few things...

One...the complete cycle time is a little over the hours for a normal cycle. The actual wash time is short, but you leave the door closed longer to trap heat inside to dry the dishes. You can open it sooner, but your dishes will be wet.

Two...a drying agent (JetDry) is essential to help water run off the dishes. Skip the JetDry and your dishes will come out wet. It's easy to add though, and a light indicates when it's running out.

Three...some dishes will never come out dry at the end of a cycle. I've noticed this is usually a problem for plastic items, and I think it happens for two reasons. Those items don't retain heat to encourage evaporation, and they're porous so water doesn't sheet off as well. Glass and metal dishes are almost always dry.

All of that said, it's a great dishwasher and we'd buy another Bosch in a heartbeat. It cleans great, and the fact that it's practically inaudible in the same room puts it above any others dishwasher I've used. The tradeoff is having to dry some of yours dishes, so I'm think it's a small price to pay for otherwise great performance.

stessier wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 7:19 am

gbasden wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:14 am

stessier wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:29 pm Our dishwasher died last night. The cycle had finished but the water pump continued to run. I unplugged it all night and it still tried running as soon as I plugged it in. This seems to indicate it is the control board...a $163 investment. The washer is 8 years old.

We went looking and really want a Bosch 300, 500, or 800 series. The only one in stock is the 300 but with controls on the front rather than top. We really prefer top because of where it is in our kitchen and how easy it is to hit the buttons. Ordering any of them likely means waiting to somewhere between March and April.

So I ordered the part. If it fixes it, then we'll place our order for our preferred replacement and sell our current one when the new one comes in. If it doesn't fix it, we have to decide if we are going to hand wash for five months or are willing to settle for the front button model.

We got a 500 not long ago and are very happy with it so far.

Cool! Do you find it as quiet as they say? The other complaint I've seen is that things don't get very dry - but I'm not sure that would really bother me as I was already drying things that I took out of our current (broken) one.

We're probably an odd case. My wife hates having the drying cycle on as she believes it causes problems with the plastic items being washed, so we use the air dry feature where it pops the door open once the cycle is done. It is very quiet, but definitely audible.

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Thu Jul 02, 2020 6:36 pm Contractor: "I'll be there around 5pm"
Contractor (at 6:25pm) "I'm running a little late, I'll see you about 7pm."

Ok, you can come over and take a look but you're not getting the job. Why? Why are they all like this?

LTTP, but during the pandemic, most anyone I've had to come out to look at something has been on time, if not early.

pr0ner wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:53 pmLTTP, but during the pandemic, most anyone I've had to come out to look at something has been on time, if not early.

Oddly enough, this was the contractor that followed up with about a month later (after I'd already told him we were not moving forward) to see if anything changed. When I said there was financial uncertainty in our lives and we didn't feel comfortable committing to a large project he sent me a giant text filled with how the virus was a hoax and there was never a better time to engage in home improvement as demand for homes was through the roof.

It was nice that he made sure to completely eliminate himself from any future consideration.

I had someone come by to give me an estimate on removing a couple of trees. He was also in the "it's a hoax" camp. I didn't tell him that that was the reason that I didn't go with him. But it pretty much was. On the bright side, when I got a quote from the company I've been using for current treatments, they actually tweaked their quote to be at/below his quoted price. So he did save me money. Just not the way he would have liked.

Smoove_B wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:24 pm

pr0ner wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:53 pmLTTP, but during the pandemic, most anyone I've had to come out to look at something has been on time, if not early.

Oddly enough, this was the contractor that followed up with about a month later (after I'd already told him we were not moving forward) to see if anything changed. When I said there was financial uncertainty in our lives and we didn't feel comfortable committing to a large project he sent me a giant text filled with how the virus was a hoax and there was never a better time to engage in home improvement as demand for homes was through the roof.

It was nice that he made sure to completely eliminate himself from any future consideration.

That contractor sounds like a real winner. He wouldn't have gotten my business, either.

Thanks to gbasden and Disarm for the dishwasher thoughts!