Octopus Overlords

There's always Box.com

disarm wrote: ↑Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:04 pm Same Dropbox message here...had to go back and remove the old devices that I don't use anymore (previous tablets and cellphones). After that I, I'm in the clear with just my current phone, tablet, and PC

Weirdly I've not received the message but my wife has. She has Dropbox only so she can get documents from our tax organization. How do you tell Dropbox to drop accounts on computers we don't possess anymore?

jztemple2 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 1:47 pm How do you tell Dropbox to drop accounts on computers we don't possess anymore?

Settings--Security will show you all devices. Kill 'em from there.

Z-Corn wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 3:17 pm

jztemple2 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2019 1:47 pm How do you tell Dropbox to drop accounts on computers we don't possess anymore?

Settings--Security will show you all devices. Kill 'em from there.

Thanks. Turns out I'm also now device limited. $99 a year? When I have Drive for free? I think I'll pass.

So, with my sound dead and numerous other small problems I've decided to get a new laptop.
None of the ones I've seen come with a dvd drive.
The next generation is going to be 4 buttons and a screen.

External CD drives are cheap. I have one that I share between my laptop and desktop machines.

Yeah, I got one for less than thirty bucks but still, it was quite a shock.

I found it quicker and more convenient to duplicate useful CD and DVDs as ISO images and keep 'em stored on a portable hard drive. Having said that, it's certainly worthwhile to keep an external optical drive on hand to err on the side of caution.

dbt1949 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 27, 2019 1:00 pm So, with my sound dead and numerous other small problems I've decided to get a new laptop.
None of the ones I've seen come with a dvd drive.
The next generation is going to be 4 buttons and a screen.

reinstall your OS?

How?

dbt1949 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:39 pmHow?

Try following this guide for reinstalling Windows.

Crap, I think my laptop is dying. Either the power brick crapped out or I need to buy another battery (not that I ever take this thing off AC) it just died in the middle of using it, and it won't turn back on, as if it's out of juice. I guess I should just buy another monitor and stick to one PC (the new desktop I got)...

Or should I just buy an ultra wide monitor and be done with it? My current setup is change resistant (too much trouble changing **** around)

I can get another 22-24 inch for under $100 refurb. Or I can buy an ultra-wide... As long as I don't ask for super large size (like 34 inch) or 144 Hz refresh, prices are reasonable.

Amazon has this 29 inch ultrawide (21:9) 1080p LG for $229. I can go 34 inch for $330 but why?

But just for grins, it seems Drop (formerly Massdrop) has a battlestation setup: a TRIPLE mount, AND 3 25 inch 1-ms 144Hz gaming monitors for $700.

If I really want a battleship, I guess I can always just buy a Massdrop Vast... 35 inch curved 21:9 2ms 100hz Freesync monitor for $550.

i was made to use 'Wifi Protected Setup' at a location last night. this technology seems... not so protected.

You know, I haven't done it regularly since the Windows XP days, but I think it may be time to reinstall Windows 10. It is an original install from the original release (fully updated, of course.) The way I use my PC has changed a few times since then, with selections of software coming and going, with numerous old programs uninstalled. Tweaks to this registry entry and that have likely been altered by updates, video cards, mouse, keyboard, and monitor have changed, audio has changed, vast numbers of driver updates have been installed while dozens of old drivers have been removed. It may just be time to clean out the cobwebs. I've been having headaches with a few games lately, weird performance hiccups here and there and so on.

I just need to decide between a 'refresh' and an old-fashioned reinstall.

i was going to do the same (Win10 install from 2011), but i decided to instead build a machine of second-hand parts and start anew. just have to wait for @Jag to sell me their CPU.

Yeah, I desperately need new hardware. I occasionally run into games where my CPU is below the minimum requirements, and and my 8 gigs of RAM is barely enough most of the time. That's part of why I'm doing this. I set this up long enough ago that my machine was actually new-ish, so I customized it for style as much as performance. Now I need that performance back.

Unplugged all but my C drive and ran the reformat/reinstall, plugged the extra drives back in and got all of my drivers and apps installed last night. Now I just need to reinstall my game services, configure all of my settings and tweaks, and calibrate my monitor. Oh, and then have all of the game clients recognize the existing game installs.

Good luck.

I've got 40+ games/applications installed. So far every one has been recognized without issue.

I've never had a Windows update where my computer worked better afterwards. I have had a few times when it worked worse.

dbt1949 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 31, 2019 3:14 pm I've never had a Windows update where my computer worked better afterwards. I have had a few times when it worked worse.

Windows updates aren't usually about performance. They're about security.

Well, that and Microsoft trying to turn a buck, but it's the price you pay for closing the holes.

Spammalot

MHS, is that you?

This is kind of random. I have been setting aside a bit of money for some new headphones. I'm usually pretty cheap when it comes to gear like that, sub $100 cheap. This time I wanted to spend a bit more and get something one level higher in sound quality. I have closed back over the ears which I like, but was missing that open backed sound. So right when I'm about to place my order my computer mouse starts freaking out. My cursor was randomly moving left, right, in berserk circles, all kinds of weird things. I notice the optical light was dimmer than usual. And I noticed that if I disabled the DPI button on the mouse the problem went away for a bit. Then i noticed if I picked up the mouse and shook it really hard the problem would go away for a bit. All this led me to believe it was a sensor or solder joint going bad. So I ordered a new mouse with the money I was going to use on headphones. Now the old mouse works fine.

I'm going to keep it as a backup, this is going to sound like sour grapes but I didn't like it anyways. It's a Genius M6-610 and I only bought it because I didn't want to buy another Logitech. I wanted to try something new and not do the same old, same old. Of course the new mouse I bought is a Logitech. The mouse did last 3 years and 3 months, so it's not like it broke down right after the warranty expired.

gameoverman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 4:34 pm This is kind of random. I have been setting aside a bit of money for some new headphones. I'm usually pretty cheap when it comes to gear like that, sub $100 cheap.

Grado SR-60 for on-the-ear
Audio-Technica ATH-m50X for around-the-ear (on sale)

hitbyambulance wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:17 pm

gameoverman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 4:34 pm This is kind of random. I have been setting aside a bit of money for some new headphones. I'm usually pretty cheap when it comes to gear like that, sub $100 cheap.

Grado SR-60 for on-the-ear
Audio-Technica ATH-m50X for around-the-ear (on sale)

Thanks for the suggestions but I was looking more in the $150-$200 range, the ones you mentioned are in the tier I usually look at. The M50x is an example of the type of sound I want to avoid. I've heard them because I know someone who has them and I took one listen and, well, no thanks.

gameoverman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:54 pm

hitbyambulance wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:17 pm

gameoverman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 4:34 pm This is kind of random. I have been setting aside a bit of money for some new headphones. I'm usually pretty cheap when it comes to gear like that, sub $100 cheap.

Grado SR-60 for on-the-ear
Audio-Technica ATH-m50X for around-the-ear (on sale)

Thanks for the suggestions but I was looking more in the $150-$200 range, the ones you mentioned are in the tier I usually look at. The M50x is an example of the type of sound I want to avoid. I've heard them because I know someone who has them and I took one listen and, well, no thanks.

Grado SR-80 !

gameoverman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:54 pm Thanks for the suggestions but I was looking more in the $150-$200 range, the ones you mentioned are in the tier I usually look at. The M50x is an example of the type of sound I want to avoid. I've heard them because I know someone who has them and I took one listen and, well, no thanks.

HiFiman He4XX w/ Planar Magnetic speakers? https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-hifiman ... headphones

AKG K7XX? https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-akg-k7xx-red-edition

Meze 99 Noir? https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-meze-99 ... headphones

Or

M&O MOZero https://drop.com/buy/m-o-mooh-be00bt-headphones (which is also Bluetooth capable)

Just put in my (refurb) AC router. Yes, I'm behind the times. My original router is a NetGear N router from a couple years back. Decided not to mess with my existing network and just use a hub to add the new AC router on a new SSID, so the new and capable devices can use the new SSID, while the one already configured to use the old stuff will continue to do so. This is a refurb Linksys AC1900, I think. Not a mesh network, but minimal work, and only cost me like $45 (instead of 2-3X if I wanted to replace my existing routers and network, not to mention hours config-ing the thing)

Oh, and the new router is actually upstairs, connected to a power-line networking hard-lined ethernet switch.

EDIT: I can confirm that the AC router is MUCH MUCH faster. I'm getting up to 15 Mbps on my desktop, whereas the old network (802.11n) is only doing about 4 Mbps. Upload speed is roughly the same, and that's no surprise.

EDIT2: Seems like my Powerline adapter just lost sync with the connector below. WTF?! I should be seeing 3 LEDs lit, but I'm seeing only two. ARGH!

And my AC router, obviously quit working. ARGH!!!!!!!! Back to N...

I was looking at the Senn 5xx but I have to admit the HiFiman interests me because I've never owned a planar headphone before. I currently own closed headphones with good amounts of bass and a smallish soundstage, which is why I'm looking for open backed, wider soundstage, and a less bass oriented and more sparkly sound. I owned the Koss KSC75s and loved those, to give an example of the type of sound I'm looking for. The problem I have with those, and why I don't just buy another pair, is the build quality is terrible. I don't care about wireless connectivity, I still prefer the sound you get from a wired connection, yes I can hear the difference at least in the ones I've tried.

This review says sound stage isn't that wide, but it's NOT bass-y.

https://headfonics.com/2018/02/massdrop ... xx-review/

You may get a better kick out of ESS 422H, according This Review

The name Mavis Beacon brought back a lot of memories to me.



Hover text:

There are actually lowercase-like 'oldstyle' forms of normal numbers with more pronounced ascenders and descenders, which is why some numbers like '5' in books sometimes dangle below the line. But the true capital numbers remain the domain of number maven Mavis Beacon.

By the way, I didn't even know this existed, but being the internet I should have expected it; there is a website called Explain xkcd which does exactly that, explains each comic. I might have to go back into their archives for a few that are still puzzling me

If it needs explaining its not funny.

I got an email from Falcon Northwest today, notifying me of their Talon 20th anniversary sale, in that they have been offering the Talon model for twenty years. Actually it isn't a sale in the sense that anything is discounted, after all this is Falcon NW . However, they have a new version of the Talon chassis with extra bells and whistles.



But they are a victim of their own build quality. I got a Talon back in early 2014 and aside from a video card upgrade the machine still runs fine, upgraded to Win10 OK and still can run the latest games. Maybe on the Talon's 25th anniversary...

By the way, I'm surprised to find that their monster Mach V is listed as "Sold Out". I'm wondering if they are planning to discontinue that model since it is a full size tower. My first Falcon was a Mach V back in 2002 and while I've stripped the guts I still use it as a side table

I still have a full tower that I dread having to pull up from where it sits between the end of my table and the wall if I have an issue that requires cracking it open. Thankfully, that hardly ever happens. <knocks on wood>

MonkeyFinger wrote: ↑Wed Sep 25, 2019 10:38 pm

I still have a full tower that I dread having to pull up from where it sits between the end of my table and the wall if I have an issue that requires cracking it open. Thankfully, that hardly ever happens. <knocks on wood>

My full tower was also a plain aluminum finish and my wife rolls her eyes when she sees it in my office. I keep telling her that someday it will be a collectors item, but I don't think she's buying it

Got my first and only full tower case in about 1999. InWin Q500. Weighs almost 30lbs empty and is about 2 feet tall. I replaced it in 2011

Got my dad's PC running again, and even got him to use the tiny keyboard so he doesn't have to use the full-size wireless Logitech. They relocated my powerline network plug downstairs and it re-sync'ed without me needing to reset the network. I can probably get my AC router back up running with another hour or two (or less). It'd be on a new SSID exclusive to me and my devices.

AC router is back up, but I really should allocate it a specific IP address on my own network. I don't think it's using my existing DHCP server and got a strange IP range. *sigh* Too bad my dad didn't want wires running out of his room. Else I could have just used my unmanaged switch and get hard-wired connection to the modem. Hahaha. Now where did I hide those cable wall mounts? (Those sticky tabs with a cable anchor)

EDIT: AC router is down again. I think I goofed up the setup and it's getting an IP address that's not actually on my network from a DHCP somewhere else. That's why it keeps going down after a while... that IP address can't be "renewed". Now I have to remember how did I setup original Wifi-N router and mirror that to WiFi-AC router without disturbing the original. *sigh*

To save my ports on my phone and tablets, I'm switching to the magnetic head cables. These are basically cables with detachable heads, so I can swap in microUSB, USB-C, or Lightning bits. I can leave the bits plugged into the devices, and the cable "heads" are magnetically coupled, so they pretty much lock into place once I guide them near each other. I plug in my phone 20-30 times a day and I am afraid of wearing out the port before the phone itself.

EDIT: The tips work great. But I'm a clumsy SOB. I dropped the phone and managed to destroy one tip... well, technically it's only half broken. *sigh* Good thing the kit came with 3 tips per type.

Okay, this is weird, or perhaps I just didn't pay enough attention.

My setup is as follows.

DSL modem-router (in passthru mode) downstairs, hooked up to a WiFi-N router.

A powerline network setup (not sure if it's connected to the modem or to the WiFi-N router, probably the latter) to take the network upstairs

My dad's PC upstairs, ethernet to a 5-port switch which is then connected to the other end of the powerline network.

My dad's PC gets Internet, no problem. It's setup correctly. (Apparently I forgot its setup.)

I hooked up my new Wifi-AC router to the switch, but I probably goofed the IP address setup or something. It works for 48 hours then dies.

I tried a couple variations, but none seems. *sigh*

I am guessing I goofed up on the new AC router's static IP address setup so it won't route to the existing router. *sigh*