Yet Another PC Build Thread

Daehawk · Post by **Daehawk** » Mon Feb 01, 2016 11:01 am

My mobo is a very nice ASUS board but Ill never buy another one. this is the second one. The first was doa or something and this one gave me a few fits to get running stable. The next time I need a mobo Im going back to GigaByte. My board before last was Gigabyte and I dont think I ever owned a nicer more stable board in my life. I heard SO much about ASUS though that last time I got them. Not again.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Mon Feb 01, 2016 12:02 pm

My last board was a Gigabyte, and it was solid... but I think any manufacturer can stumble and I doubt any of them intentionally releases bad product.

BooTx · Post by **BooTx** » Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:39 pm

I'm generally of a mind that brand loyalty is stupid. Every single hardware company has sent out tens of thousands of faulty products. And for every anecdote of you buying a lemon there are thousands of perfectly happy customers. And for every product that you think is flawless, there are hundreds of people with horror stories.

Unless there's some undeniable trend backed up by data, the only important thing really is how good the customer service is, so that you're taken care of in the unlikely event that you do receive a bad product.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:45 am

The new NIC resolved the last of my problems. Shogun 2 and MechWarrior Online now work correctly, and everything else is running well.

I spent the night playing Subnautica and enjoying the visuals of it.

coopasonic · Post by **coopasonic** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:37 am

Posted in the XCOM 2 thread, but the new PC came yesterday.

transfer video card from old machine
do first time windows stuff (ie say no to everything)
install Chrome
install video drivers
install dropbox
install KeePass
install steam
preload XCOM 2

wait...

There was a teensy bit of noise as the fan started up on initial startup but I don't think I have heard a whisper from it since.

I need to get a cheap monitor and set up the old PC (and find the old video card) for the kids to play on since daddy will be hogging the new PC to play XCOM for the next several years.

Jag · Post by **Jag** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:51 am

coopasonic wrote:Posted in the XCOM 2 thread, but the new PC came yesterday.

transfer video card from old machine
do first time windows stuff (ie say no to everything)
install Chrome
install video drivers
install dropbox
install KeePass
install steam
preload XCOM 2

wait...

There was a teensy bit of noise as the fan started up on initial startup but I don't think I have heard a whisper from it since.

I need to get a cheap monitor and set up the old PC (and find the old video card) for the kids to play on since daddy will be hogging the new PC to play XCOM for the next several years.

There is something special about loading up a new game on a new PC and just watching it fly.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:41 pm

Jag wrote:There is something special about loading up a new game on a new PC and just watching it fly.

Yeah.

I've been loving my load times and graphics.

Fallout 4 is not only beautiful, but the first load screen slips by in 10 seconds or so where it might have taken maybe 30-45 seconds on my old computer - and then zone to zone takes a few seconds where it used to be 15-20 seconds. I don't have time anymore to sit and lazily spin the infomercial renderings.

I had never played Subnautica, but fired it up and saw the screen saying "It might look like the game is frozen, but please be patient, it is loading" and had enough time to read that and think "Huh, I wonder how long.... Oh - it's ready"

The notoriously long load times for Shogun 2 are maybe around 15 seconds long for me. People on forums were talking about going to get a cup of coffee or reading a book while they waited.

I still haven't finished downloading Star Citizen, but that game was also a brutal load for me. I'll be interested to see what it does now.

I really want to get home and start downloading XCOM 2...

Jag · Post by **Jag** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 1:14 pm

Paingod wrote:I really want to get home and start downloading XCOM 2...

If you are near a PC or have a smartphone, the free TeamViewer is your friend for downloading games before you get home.

Isgrimnur · Post by **Isgrimnur** » Thu Feb 04, 2016 1:23 pm

Or Chrome Remote Desktop. Great for grinding Steam cards as well.

Bakhtosh · Post by **Bakhtosh** » Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:04 pm

Needed to upgrade to run Fallout 4 and XCOM 2
Pulled the trigger on a much needed upgrade from my Core2Duo build:

Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan
MSI MSI Gaming Z170A GAMING M5 LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory
TOTAL $547.95

These will go into my existing case:
Rosewill R5604-BK 0.8mm Japanese Cold Rolled Steel Dual 120mm Fans Screw-Less design ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
with
MSI Computer Corp. NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti Gaming OC 2GB GDDR5 VGA/DVI/HDMI PCI-Express Video Card N750TI TF 2GD5/OC
Seagate Hybrid Drive ST2000DX001 2TB MLC/8GB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s NCQ 3.5" Desktop SSHD
Western Digital Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive
OCZ ZS Series 550W 80PLUS Bronze High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandy Bridge Core i3 i5 i7
and a couple of optical drives.

Only concern at this point is will this monster cooler fit into my case. This thing is ridiculous.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:57 am

I'd be concerned; it's hard to know how well something that big will fit. Your chassis has a 120mm fan in it already, so it's at least that wide - but probably not much wider. That heat sink will be 120mm, plus base, plus MoBo, plus tray ...

I once bought a fan that was too large to use in my case. I ended up donating it off to a co-worker to use in a heat-based science experiment.

The PC I build continues to run well, and quietly. After hours of XCOM 2, the fans never bothered to spin up enough for me to more than barely hear it. Same for Fallout 4. I only hear the faint hum when I take my headphones off... Daehawk's concerns over the volume of an MSI video card are unwarranted in this model.

BooTx · Post by **BooTx** » Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:32 pm

Paingod wrote:I once bought a fan that was too large to use in my case. I ended up donating it off to a co-worker to use in a heat-based science experiment.

My friend once bought a CPU cooler that was too tall to fit in his case.

So he ran the case with the side off for the next 7 years.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:43 pm

I'm too anal retentive to let that slide. It's gotta fit, and it's gotta be clean. I wouldn't just cut a hole in the chassis, or leave the side panel off. Madness!

Of course, my last PC ran hot - it could heat a small room to 80º after 6 hours of heavy use. On hot summer days I'd need to pull the side off and put a desk fan blowing directly into the thing to keep it cool enough to not artifact and glitch while I played. A window AC unit fixed the whole problem, though.

EvilHomer3k · Post by **EvilHomer3k** » Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:19 pm

Bakhtosh wrote: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan

These will go into my existing case:
Rosewill R5604-BK 0.8mm Japanese Cold Rolled Steel Dual 120mm Fans Screw-Less design ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Only concern at this point is will this monster cooler fit into my case. This thing is ridiculous.

You should be okay. The Rosewill is 8" wide. I have that cooler in an Antec 300 case which is 8.25" wide. I've got mayby 2" to spare.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:25 pm

Paingod wrote:I read through that - he mentioned moving up to the 980 over the 970 and loving it. I'll look through that and maybe call it a baseline.

Thank you!

*Edit - that is an awesome website. Holy simplification of the process, Batman...!!

A rough first draft, based on that list you provided with some modifications.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($138.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($138.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($138.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($138.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($479.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK-I ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold S 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1975.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-14 13:52 EST-0500

The Gigabyte board has some unfavorable mentions of BIOS and RAM issues. The SSD was more than an OS needs (250GB is more, too - I'll probably trim that and find a better fan). I included 4 WD 7200RPM 2TB drives for a RAID 10, for 4TB of space that provides 4x read speed to help quickly load games.

*Edit: Somehow I got turned around and was looking at the CryoRig C7, which was odd for my build and had 2 reviews. The H7 has glowing reviews in general and I'll give that one a whirl.

I am looking to build a new system for under $1500. Your build seems like a good start. After removing all the Western Digital hard drives the price gets down to $1374. I don't need a monitor. Any other suggestions for a gaming rig that will last me a few years? Are CPU Coolers difficult to install?

Daehawk · Post by **Daehawk** » Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:38 pm

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:34 am

I didn't end up with the same system I started with - I ended up with this, which is around $1,350 if you pop out the SSD's. For simplicity, I also bought the parts from just Amazon and NewEgg. In the end I was glad I bought the motherboard from NewEgg as told below...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5g Thermal Paste ($12.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Mushkin Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Mushkin Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($479.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($107.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($152.95 @ B&H)
Total: $1883.15

A couple things to bear in mind with this particular motherboard that I ran into.

Immediately update the BIOS to the latest version using a flash drive. You may need to do this prior to installing Windows, and the "EZ" utility they include in the BIOS worked smoothly - it found the flash drive, saw the update, and applied it with minimal hassle.
If the CPU fan doesn't spin up when you power it on and/or you get an error about missing the CPU fan, try moving the CPU fan plug from "CPU_Fan" to "CPU_Opt" on the motherboard. I had to do this; it still works and runs fine. I had to do this prior to updating the BIOS - so I may have been able to switch it back afterwards. I didn't bother since I already had a working config.
My motherboard had a dud network jack. I'd get blue screens and crashes when I was online - and games like Shogun 2 and MechWarrior Online simply refused to launch because the NIC stuck them in limbo. I "fixed" this by buying an internal NIC and disabled the on-board NIC in the BIOS. Problems all solved. NewEgg was awesome and paid for most of the NIC cost as well (instead of having me send back the motherboard).
The lighting controls are a little wonky - you can disable lights through the BIOS and the Windows App to control the lights only controls one light - so you end up with bright whites, reds, and whatever other color you select. I disabled the red & bright white.

This rig runs so quiet that I don't even know it's on, and the CPU fan only spins up a little when I install a game. I really have no complaints at all once everything was squared away. The computer is running awesome and doesn't hesitate to hit all the "Ultra" settings on every game I've installed.

Moliere wrote:Any other suggestions for a gaming rig that will last me a few years?

Honestly, I expect this computer to last me another 5-6 years before I feel a strong urge to upgrade again. I think the components are strong and it'll take big leaps ahead in gaming requirements for it to fall behind and have problems. I expect that in a couple years, I'll be using "high" graphics settings instead of "very high" and in a year or two after that, "medium" will be the norm - but still looking good.

Daehawk wrote:nope

To elaborate - they're not overly difficult, but if you've never built a computer you might want to watch a YouTube video on installing a heatsink & fan on a motherboard.

Kind of a step-by-step:

Make sure you're grounded and discharge any static electricity before touching anything for your computer.
Throughout the entire process, be careful and don't drop anything. Don't try and do this on anything but a flat, clean, stable, static-electricity free surface. We don't build computers in our laps on the couch while watching Game of Thrones.
The CPU will only go on one way. Before you place it in the slot, make sure you've got the right orientation. This is a matter of matching notches & tabs on the slot and CPU.
Don't touch the connectors on the CPU or motherboard. They may have delicate pins that you do not want to bend.
There should be a visual aid in the manual for the motherboard or CPU box that explains how to seat the CPU and lock it in place.
Once the CPU is locked in, you need to apply thermal paste. It doesn't take much, and the application theory is varied.
- Sometimes a heat sink will come with a uniform layer of paste pre-applied. I strip this off and use my own choice of thermal paste, some may not - saying the manufacturer knows best. The heat sink in my build did not have this.
- Some people place a "pea-sized" dollop on the CPU and use the heat sink to spread the paste by contact using a smooth, gentle twisting motion as they slowly lower the heat sink into place.
- Some people like to use a credit card or similar object to spread the paste on in a light uniform coating before setting the heatsink down on it. I've never done this, but others swear by it.
- Some people use method one and pull the heat sink off to check dispersal before setting the heat sink back on. I don't do this because it seems like a great way to introduce air bubbles. If I did this just to check and make sure I had enough, I'd clean both surfaces and start over with the same amount - feeling relatively confident that I had good coverage.
- The entire intent of this process is to create the thinnest layer of thermal paste that still makes solid contact with both the CPU and heat sink across as much surface space as possible. The paste isn't there to cool anything down by itself so having excess isn't a good thing; you don't want globs of the stuff oozing out of the sides. It's entire purpose is to facilitate heat conduction from one surface to the other.
- If you do find you need to clean up thermal paste, use the right tools and cleaner. High purity isopropyl alcohol (99%) is a common choice (non-conductive, quick drying). For applicators, I'd use cotton swabs for small cracks (be sure to leave no fibers) or paper towels for flat surfaces.
After you've lowered the heat sink & fan assembly into place, lock it down as the instructions show - using the holes in the motherboard and whatever hardware the heat sink & fan come with - generally plastic pins & clips that lock into place once pushed through the motherboard and twisted.
Viola - you're done attaching the heat sink.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Thu Apr 07, 2016 11:16 am

Thank you for the follow-up and step-by-step guide. I will need to make a decision in the next couple of weeks and figure out what I want to do.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Fri Apr 15, 2016 11:43 am

After more research and looking at parts and combo options this is what I'm looking at:

Core, MB, RAM $580
MKNSSDRE512GB 512GB SSD $150
CRYORIG CPU Cooler $35
Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound $9
GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE 3X 450W OC EDITION $430
Item#: N82E16811854003 Case $100
850W power supply $150

Total: $1454

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 7:33 am

That looks like a very solid PC for a very good price.

I can attest that the 850W power supply (assuming you're getting the Corsair I had?) is dead silent and works great so far. You've got a step up in video & CPU that I don't have - and I'm a little envious. Running the whole thing on a solid state drive kills the bottleneck you might have felt with traditional drives (reducing load & boot times). The only thing I did that you haven't one-upp'd here is the RAID0 with 2 1TB drives - but I only did that because I keep everything installed all the time and like to just open my games folder and pick a title to play without fuss. That's completely non-essential for people who just keep things they're playing installed and remove them when they're done. The Phanteks case is light, but not flimsy, and roomy enough for an easy build while looking clean and stylish in its own right - not to mention the filtering saves you from dust bunny invasions.

I like it.

*Note: Reviews have indicated some issues shutting down or booting up with the ASUS motherboard - make sure you've got the latest BIOS updates running using a flash drive & the EZ Update (inside the BIOS) methods they have to get the BIOS running smoothly before you try to dig into any problems that crop up during setup.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:05 am

Paingod wrote:*Note: Reviews have indicated some issues shutting down or booting up with the ASUS motherboard - make sure you've got the latest BIOS updates running using a flash drive & the EZ Update (inside the BIOS) methods they have to get the BIOS running smoothly before you try to dig into any problems that crop up during setup.

I'm not looking forward to figuring this out along with transferring Win7 to the new machine and hoping I get the Win10 upgrade message.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:35 am

Moliere wrote:
Paingod wrote:*Note: Reviews have indicated some issues shutting down or booting up with the ASUS motherboard - make sure you've got the latest BIOS updates running using a flash drive & the EZ Update (inside the BIOS) methods they have to get the BIOS running smoothly before you try to dig into any problems that crop up during setup.
I'm not looking forward to figuring this out along with transferring Win7 to the new machine and hoping I get the Win10 upgrade message.

This makes BIOS updates seem almost easy. I will know in about a week when all the parts have arrived and the system gets built. Thanks for all your feedback and help Paingod.

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:59 am

Moliere wrote: This makes BIOS updates seem almost easy.

I found the BIOS update remarkably easy. I downloaded the latest from their website and dumped it into a flash drive, plugged that in, entered the BIOS, found the EZ Update menu, and it was essentially done.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:24 pm

Any recommendations for a DVD/CD and possible Blue Ray drive for read and write?

Paingod · Post by **Paingod** » Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:39 pm

I historically carry those over build to build unless they give me signs of failure. That's what I had done with my current PC.

This drive on Amazon seems to get a staggeringly high positive review score if you look at the total number of reviews and the high rating overall. If I was in the market, it'd be my first choice unless I had a specific task in mind and not just "good DVD/burner".

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:49 pm

Paingod wrote:I historically carry those over build to build unless they give me signs of failure. That's what I had done with my current PC.

This drive on Amazon seems to get a staggeringly high positive review score if you look at the total number of reviews and the high rating overall. If I was in the market, it'd be my first choice unless I had a specific task in mind and not just "good DVD/burner".

I am the same way about carrying them over. The exception here is that I plan on creating a lower end desktop from my spare parts for a family member so I will need a new drive for me. Thanks for the recommendation.

hitbyambulance · Post by **hitbyambulance** » Wed Apr 20, 2016 4:43 pm

they seem to not be as well made as they used to be. reminds me of the waning years of cassette tape decks.

i purchased a Pioneer Blu-Ray writer last year, seems to be holding up ok...

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:57 pm

The pc has been built. Now time for the many hours to transfer Windows and get all the other quirks resolved so I can really start using it.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:52 pm

I have Win7 installed and activated on the new computer, but I can't get the Windows Update to function properly. Hours of research online tells me there is a problem with the freshly installed Updater among all the other possibilities. I haven't been able to update the Bios yet (flash drive issues) so I'm hoping they're not connected. I tried to do a force Win10 upgrade, but that didn't work either.

Fitzy · Post by **Fitzy** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:11 am

That's sort of amusing that countless people are complaining about forced Win10 updates, yet you can't get one by trying.

Have you attempted to feign disinterest in wanting 10?

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 2:50 pm

Fitzy wrote:That's sort of amusing that countless people are complaining about forced Win10 updates, yet you can't get one by trying.

Have you attempted to feign disinterest in wanting 10?

This morning I saw the Win10 icon appear. I requested the upgrade. The download and update went through without a problem. See, Win10 fixes everything.

Moliere · Post by **Moliere** » Wed May 18, 2016 2:20 pm

Newegg delivered my first ever backlit gaming keyboard and mouse. I think this makes the rig complete.

Cortilian · Post by **Cortilian** » Tue Jul 12, 2016 12:03 pm

OK here is my prospective build. My budget is about 1500.00. Any suggestions? http://pcpartpicker.com/list/HtFmqk

PCPartPicker part list:
Price breakdown by merchant:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($85.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Toshiba X300 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($419.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Cooler Master N400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1298.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-12 12:02 EDT-0400

Zaxxon · Post by **Zaxxon** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:16 am

Hey, look, another new build post with questions!

The combination of a new camera and its attendant Lightroom/RAW processing along with No Man's Sky has cracked the armor of my 4.5-year old rig. I'm close to Spousal Unit Approval for a replacement, but have been out of the game for so long that I feel like an amateur. I'm not opposed to building my own, but time has reduced my need to do so. I'm considering CyberPower as I've heard good things and they give all the customization of build-your-own without, you know, the work and headaches that can come along with self-builds.

Context on where I'm coming from:
-Dell Vostro 460 (hey, it was a great deal at the time through Dell Outlet)
-Core i5-2400 @ 3.1 GHz
-16 GB RAM
-AMD Radeon HD 7700 1 GB video
-Kingston 480 GB SSD + spindle secondary drives. Games and Lightroom catalog on the SSD.

I'd like to keep the build under $1500 all-in, would like 32 GB RAM, an i7-6700k processor (more for Lightroom than gaming), an RX480 video card, and whatever else sounds cool. Considering a custom build with a starting point along these lines. With a 5% coupon I found, it seems I can meet these goals at CyberPower without too much trouble.

So any thoughts/recommendations on these ideas or other things to consider would be welcome. I'll probably place the order sometime this week. One question I have is on M.2 vs 'regular' SSD vs PCI-E SSD. This wasn't a thing when I last bought. If I am understanding properly, the main benefit of M.2 is higher sustained speeds, eg not much of a noticeable bump since most day-to-day SSD activity is not of the sustained sort. Maybe shave a couple seconds off of boot but not worth the relatively large premium. Is that correct?

Default CyberPower cooling/fan options OK? I'll probably swing for the 10% overclock option they offer since it's $19. Seems a no-brainer so long as it's warrantied.

cheeba · Post by **cheeba** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:36 pm

Zaxxon wrote:One question I have is on M.2 vs 'regular' SSD vs PCI-E SSD. This wasn't a thing when I last bought. If I am understanding properly, the main benefit of M.2 is higher sustained speeds, eg not much of a noticeable bump since most day-to-day SSD activity is not of the sustained sort. Maybe shave a couple seconds off of boot but not worth the relatively large premium. Is that correct?

I'm just about to get parts to build a new PC tomorrow and it'll be my first SSD, so I can't speak much to the differences in speed. I do know, however, that it depends on the drive you get. For example, I got an m.2 Samsung 850 EVO, which is effectively the same as your typical SSD. I went with the m.2 because the price difference is tiny (I think $10 maybe?) and I don't need to worry about cables or make sure I have an adapter to fit a regular SSD. Just pop it in the mobo, 1 screw, done.

Then there's m.2's like the Samsung 950 pro, which is around double the price but 4-5x the speed.

So I guess what I'm saying is that if I'm building a new PC, which I will hopefully be doing tomorrow if the parts come in, I'd get a regular m.2 just for the convenience. If I were having someone else build my PC or if I were using a newer case with plenty of SSD slots, I would probably get a regular SSD.

Zaxxon · Post by **Zaxxon** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:44 pm

Thanks.

The Meal · Post by **The Meal** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:53 pm

Zaxxon wrote:I'm considering CyberPower as I've heard good things and they give all the customization of build-your-own without, you know, the work and headaches that can come along with self-builds.

I've done two builds with them, most recently late spring 2016. Build 1 required minor fixes post-shipping (along the line of a loose fan wire, IIRC). I also vaguely remember using their phone support for a relatively minor issue and was pleased with the process. Build 2 saw me pay the ~$20 package-it-up-really-nice fee. I've been exceedingly happy with the current machine (and was happy enough with the first to dip my toes back in the same pool). Know that the time from order to receiving shipment is something like three agonizingly long weeks.

I'd go out of my way to use 'em again.

Zaxxon · Post by **Zaxxon** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:55 pm

Fantastic. Thanks.

Smoove_B · Post by **Smoove_B** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 12:56 pm

I was about to pull the trigger on a Cyberpower PC (the last one I purchased is almost 6 years old now and still running like a champ), but someone offered to build me one instead. Not that it necessarily helps you, but I did go with a Samsung 750 EVO 250 GB drive for my O/S and it's bananas fast. I'd go so far as to say I can't imagine it being faster (or more gooder) than what I have now. But maybe someone with more info (and an extra $10) knows more than I do.

coopasonic · Post by **coopasonic** » Tue Aug 23, 2016 2:52 pm

I'm on my third cyberpower box now and have never had an issue with them or the PCs.

My current main drive is a 500GB M.2. It's stupid fast, but I can't compare it to anything but a 7200 rpm spinny disk as that is what I migrated from.