Computer continuously rebooting

[Grifman]

Ok, got a major problem, I start my computer, it shuts off before anything appears on screen. Then it reboots, gets to the screen where it tells me I can hit DEL or F2 to get to the bios. Then it shuts off again, and the sequence starts all over. I’ve tried hitting DEL or F2 to get to the bios but nothing happens. I have also tried continually holding the F8 key to get to the boot menu but no luck there either. I’m guessing it is a hardware problem, but it could be one of several from what I read - power supply, RAM etc, but right now I am stuck. Any idea what I could do?

[Smoove_B]

You could pull out the RAM and see if it'll POST and stay powered, but based on what I've seen I'm guessing you either have a bad power supply or bad (bulging) capacitors on the MB. Swapping out the power supply might be easy, but if it's not the power supply and it's bad capacitors you're likely hosed. Wish I had better news for you. The exact symptoms you're seeing I eventually linked to bad capacitors, FWIW.

[Grifman]

Ok. I just read that F8 is not enabled in Win 10, so that won’t work. I just got into the bios now for some reason - I got a message that “overclocking failed” which is why the bios came up. I know that my CPU was overclocked when I bought it from Digital Storm. Is that causing my problem? How do I get rid ov the CPU overclocking if that is it?

[Grifman]

I managed to get it running. From within the BIOS I was able to boot up into Windows 10 and everything is ok now. So I will play it by ear. If it keeps happening, I may take it into a shop and let them look at it and see what it is. I am guessing power supply but it could be any number of things. I do know that when playing Fallout 4 I get power surges that shut off the PC but that's the only game it happens to so I don't know if this is related or not.

Thanks for the info, Smoove. I was checking my documentation and this machine is 3.5 years old, so that's not too bad, though I think I got almost 5 years out of my last machine.

[Z-Corn]

Sounds like dirty power to me.

You may need to plug the PC into a reliable power strip or, better yet, a good UPS. Or yeah, the internal power supply should be replaced.

Either way, back up your data soon.

[Grifman]

Sounds like dirty power to me.

You may need to plug the PC into a reliable power strip or, better yet, a good UPS. Or yeah, the internal power supply should be replaced.

Either way, back up your data soon.

What do you mean by "dirty power"? The PC is already plugged into a surge protector. And yes, good idea on backing it. I'm backing up my crucial documents on Google Drive as we speak. Thanks for the reminder!

[Anonymous Bosch]

Sounds like dirty power to me.

You may need to plug the PC into a reliable power strip or, better yet, a good UPS. Or yeah, the internal power supply should be replaced.

Either way, back up your data soon.

What do you mean by "dirty power"? The PC is already plugged into a surge protector. And yes, good idea on backing it. I'm backing up my crucial documents on Google Drive as we speak. Thanks for the reminder!

There's a world of difference between a basic surge protector and a decent-quality Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) or line conditioner. Here's the basics of what Z-Corn was referring to, courtesy of Cyberpower Systems:

A line interactive UPS incorporates technology which allows it to correct minor power fluctuations (under-voltages and over voltages) without switching to battery. This type of UPS has an autotransformer that regulates low voltages (e.g., brownouts) and over voltages (e.g., swells) without having to switch to battery. Line interactive UPS models are typically used for consumer electronics, PCs, gaming systems, home theater electronics, network equipment, and entry-to-mid-range servers. They provide power during such events as a blackout, voltage sag, voltage surge, or over-voltage.

A double-conversion (online) UPS provides consistent, clean, and near perfect power regardless of the condition of incoming power. This UPS converts incoming AC power to DC, and then back to AC. UPS systems with this technology operate on isolated DC power 100 percent of the time and have a zero transfer time because they never need to switch to DC power. Double-conversion UPS systems are designed to protect mission-critical IT equipment, data center installations, high-end servers, large telecom installations and storage applications, and advanced network equipment from damage caused by a power blackout, voltage sag, voltage surge, over voltage, voltage spike, frequency noise, frequency variation, or harmonic distortion.

A surge protector lacks these features. A surge protector simply includes a shorting mechanism and ground line that physically blocks excess electrical energy from reaching your devices, and that's where the protection ends. So if your power is prone to significant fluctuations ("dirty power") it tends to cause erratic behaviour in electronics, and may well damage a gaming PC. Hence the notion of using a UPS not just for backup power to safely shut down during an outage, but also to help regulate (i.e. provide 'cleaner') power for a gaming PC.

[Grifman]

Great, thanks! Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent gaming UPS? Again, thanks!

[Anonymous Bosch]

Great, thanks! Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent gaming UPS? Again, thanks!

I'd suggest going with PC Gamer's pick for the best uninterruptible power supply (UPS) for PC gaming:

1. Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD
The best UPS for most gamers

• + True sine-wave UPS900 watts sustained power delivery
• + Useful LCD screen for monitoring
• - Only average with ultra, ultra-powerful PCs
  
  The CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA is one of the best UPSes on the market. Several factors contribute to it being our top pick for most gamers. First, the CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA has enough juice to handle the majority of gaming machines on the market, even if you're running dual GPUs. Unless you've got systems with ten hard drives, quad-way GPU, and other accessories, the CP1500PFCLCD should have enough juice to last 10-20 minutes (longer if you have a more moderate rig) if a power failure occurs.
  
  Given its ample power reserves, the CP1500PFCLCD is also a great pick coming in at less than $220 for a 900 watt unit. This is a stunning price as just several short years ago, a similarly specced UPS would easily approach $500.
  
  One of the most important features of the CP1500PFCLCD is its true sine-wave output. Most UPSes in its price range only provide simulated sine-wave output, which is a stepped sine-wave that approximates what you get out of your wall outlet. Some electronics are sensitive to simulated sine-waves and will behave abnormally. At $199, having true sine-wave output is basically unheard of, so kudos to CyberPower for delivering on quality power output.

[MonkeyFinger]

Ok. I just read that F8 is not enabled in Win 10, so that won’t work. I just got into the bios now for some reason - I got a message that “overclocking failed” which is why the bios came up. I know that my CPU was overclocked when I bought it from Digital Storm. Is that causing my problem? How do I get rid ov the CPU overclocking if that is it?

I also have a DS rig from 2015 that had "Overclocking failed" errors at first. Even posted about it here but just checked and I never followed up with the resolution. Dang. I recall doing... something... in the BIOS, perhaps? Or maybe it was turning off DEP? That is all that came to mind. Wish I recalled, hasn't been an issue since. <knockonwood>

Any chance you have an ASUS motherboard? If you go to the DS support forums and search all time for "overclocking failed" it comes up quite a bit and seems to be (have been?) an issue ASUS in particular. Might be worth wading through those. Some mention RAM needing to be reseated or high speed RAM being the "overclocking" at play here. Good luck!

[TheMix]

Have you tried calling Digital Storm? I called once on an old PC and they were very helpful. I think I was trying to restore the original factory image, but the settings had changed. At any rate it was, I think, 5+ years since I'd bought it from them. They were still really helpful.

[MonkeyFinger]

I second that.