Home Projects (upkeep/repair/mods/cool sh*t/advice/question)

[Kraken]

For $15 I'd probably go back and buy another one and keep it hanging in my garage (or basement) for future use.

I hope I won't be living here in five years, if I'm still living at all. Once you get to be 65 you stop planning that far ahead.

Or you could replace the flapper

The float valve came packaged with a new flapper, so replacing that was a bonus. One can buy the flapper alone for around $5 and it takes maybe 5 minutes to replace.

[naednek]

Monday woke up to luke warm water. Called a plumber, they took a look, and thankfully it's the thermalcouple. Replaced that, good as new, except it's not new, I'm on borrowed time. Water Heater is over 10 years old, and showing signs of sediment buildup. Initiated project put money away each month for eventual replacement activated.

[Smoove_B]

A water heater over 8 years old is on borrowed time. Take it from someone that's had to replace 3 during my tenure as a homeowner - aggressively fund a replacement and do it at a time that's convenient (i.e. ahead of failure). If not, I can pretty much guarantee it will start leaking during a holiday weekend...

I am convinced the water heater engineers figured out a way to guarantee they'll work for exactly 8 years and not a day more - which is why the warranty expires after 96 months.

[Carpet_pissr]

Jesus. 8 years? Are you buying the same brand?

[Blackhawk]

From what I understand, ours is chugging along well past 30. Which is good, because they installed at least one wall after the water heater, permanently boxing it into the corner of the bathroom. There's a closet that's about 18" wide that you can access it from while sitting on the john, but the space between the sink and the tub (the only route out of the bathroom) is narrower than the heater. Which means that if it ever needs actual replacement, it will require removing the sink and one wall.

Because.

[Smoove_B]

Jesus. 8 years? Are you buying the same brand?

It's probably because both houses I've owned have been on well water. Also, if you read the maintenance schedule on them, you should be draining and "cleaning" them annually. I don't know anyone that does that but that might prolong life a bit. All I know is that for the last two I purchased, a month after the warranty was up, water started oozing from the bottom. Like clockwork.

When we purchased our first home that water heater was like 22 years old.I replaced it a year after we moved in figuring it was going to explode. 8 years later, I had to get a new one. If I'm doing my math correctly the person I sold it to has a little over a year before the last one I put in gives up the ghost - I wrote the date on top in black sharpie for them. Well, I wrote it for me, but hopefully they notice.

Our new house doesn't have a water heater, so I have that going for me. I actually heat the water with my bottled up rage. It's been working great.

[Zarathud]

I was happy to get a tankless water heater to avoid the potential leaking. We skipped 3 years of maintenance and apparently the scaling does build up even with city water. We’ll be adding it to the annual expenditures — gutter cleaning, sewer rodding, roof inspection, sump pump inspection and HVAC tuning. We’ve found and fixed a few problems that way before they went really bad.

[Scuzz]

A water heater over 8 years old is on borrowed time. Take it from someone that's had to replace 3 during my tenure as a homeowner - aggressively fund a replacement and do it at a time that's convenient (i.e. ahead of failure). If not, I can pretty much guarantee it will start leaking during a holiday weekend...

I am convinced the water heater engineers figured out a way to guarantee they'll work for exactly 8 years and not a day more - which is why the warranty expires after 96 months.

We got 25 years out of our water heater. But I do know a neighbor whose house was built when ours was and she is on her third one.

[stessier]

I was happy to get a tankless water heater to avoid the potential leaking. We skipped 3 years of maintenance and apparently the scaling does build up even with city water. We’ll be adding it to the annual expenditures — gutter cleaning, sewer rodding, roof inspection, sump pump inspection and HVAC tuning. We’ve found and fixed a few problems that way before they went really bad.

If they didn't do it when they installed it, get a plumber to add bypass valves during the next cleaning. After that, you can do the descaling yourself if you have two short hoses, a 5 gallon bucket, a small sump pump, and white vinegar. It's really easy - takes about 30 minutes.

[Kraken]

Well, there just had to be a toilet footnote, didn't there? Wife announced that "the toilet's broken again." Turns out that the plastic collar inside the spud, that connects the handle to the lever, broke. Oh well, that's another cheap and easy replacement...if the hardware store is open. (It's not.) Rather than make a trek to Home Depot and brave their miles of aisles, I just glued it back together. Hoping my Macguyver holds until the True Value opens in the morning.

[Daehawk]

I ended up having to get CFL bulbs for my living room. I got LEDs to replace to burnt out CFLs but for some reason they refused to work in one of the fixtures. All 4 bulbs just refused to cooperate. 2 did not work at all, one would light up really dimly, and the 4th would seem to work then begin flickering after 10 minutes. Fine CFL it is for the living room.

I also moved the day light type bright white to the kitchen and back porch and sticking to soft white for the living room. The other is too white in there. Felt artificial. But its nice to have in the kitchen and porch where I need it brighter.

[Carpet_pissr]

if you read the maintenance schedule on them, you should be draining and "cleaning" them annually. I don't know anyone that does that but that might prolong life a bit.

Our new house doesn't have a water heater, so I have that going for me. I actually heat the water with my bottled up rage. It's been working great.

Literally almost spewed coffee on that last paragraph. Damn you.

As for the annual maintenance, when I thought ours wa dying or dead a few years ago, I read about the ‘purge’ recommendation and did it. Fixed the problem immediately (it was either really slow heat-up, or running out of hot water quickly, can’t recall)

That involved literally nothing more than just pulling up on some release valve on top of the unit to drain the water out for a minute or so (where that water went I don’t know…ours is on the second floor, so I assume…down)

Whatever I read about doing that prompted me to put it in my todo list as an annual reminder (not sure it was as important as getting regular oil changes in your car, but it was close I think).

Checking my list now, I see I was supposed to do it again last YEAR (February!) so my reminder system is working great!

This unit was here when we bought this house in 2013, and I assume it was the original one from 2004 when house was built.

Now I’m thinking I should pre-emptively replace since I’ve invoked the Home Maintenance God of Vengeance with this smug anecdote.

[Daehawk]

I drain mine every other year. When I moved here in 88 that one had been here 20 years at least. We replaced it in like 95 then again in 2005 then again in 2014 or so then again in 2016...hoping this one lasts a while.

But its looking more and more like my next job is having the septic tank sucked dry. Its slow to flush and such now. I dread that as Ill have to get out there and dig the soil off the two caps on top of it so the guy can reach it. When I can afford it...still working on taxes and trying not to stress so I can sleep and not wake up unable to breath.

[em2nought]

But its looking more and more like my next job is having the septic tank sucked dry. Its slow to flush and such now.

Hopefully it's the septic tank needing cleaned out versus the septic field needing replaced.

[Daehawk]

Oh they told us last time the field was in bad shape. Nothing I can do about that. Im surprised that it has lasted about 15 years with a bad field. I think that was BS.

[Anonymous Bosch]

Oh they told us last time the field was in bad shape. Nothing I can do about that. Im surprised that it has lasted about 15 years with a bad field. I think that was BS.

Nah, it was actually DS. But alas, the only thing worse than the smell of a septic leach field overflowing with DS are the prohibitive costs and local permits necessary to replace it.

[Smoove_B]

Oh they told us last time the field was in bad shape. Nothing I can do about that. Im surprised that it has lasted about 15 years with a bad field. I think that was BS.

A septic tank should be pumped ~3 years. However with minimal use (size of designed system vs size of household using it), they can go longer. Same with the septic field.

If a system is being used as designed (i.e. at capacity), on average they last about 20-25 years. Aggressive maintenance (having tank pumped regularly), under-use (designed for 4 people but 2 live there) and making sure not to put items in the system that don't belong (food waste, latex paint, etc...) can increase lifespan.

But sometimes the surrounding soil and geography also ultimately influence the life of the system as well.

I know things about septics. AMA.

[Daehawk]

This one is probably 60 years old. It was just me and the wife since last pumping. Its a double tank system. Just me now. If I do get it pumped someday it should last until Im dead and gone. Then a few 1000 years from now an archeologist can see what I had for supper one night and print a report on it.

[Smoove_B]

The oldest one I've ever seen was ~100 years old - just a cesspit that was working fine on a farm house. Horrifically polluting the ground water around the house, but in terms of not backing up? Perfect. I have a friend in PA that has a similar system. I think it's close to 40 years old and in terms of disposal, it works great - it's located over fractured bedrock. Treatment? None.

A double-tank system tells me someone was trying to do the right thing. They either converted an existing cesspit into the first "tank" and then added an actual septic tank in between the disposal field -or- just installed an actual two-chamber tank (which would functionally be the same). The idea is the first tank traps the solids and then there's a bit of "pre-treatment" that happens in the second tank before it goes out to the field.

Pumping the tanks should be about $300 - that's what it would cost me around here. Maybe down there it's cheaper. Septic systems work great...until they don't. And then...trouble. For $300 (and yes I know you're strapped) that is a much better option than if the system goes into failure and local authorities get involved. As a former local authority, trust me on this one.

[Daehawk]

Got a 200' well. If I had the money Id do the geo heating and cooling thing.

[naednek]

They plumber told me to not drain at this point as it will shake up the sediment and possibly either keep me from shutting the valve back off, or break the heater so it doesn't heat again. So, I'm leaving it as is, and putting money aside to either buy when we have the $$$ saved or when it breaks and we have some money to go towards. Whatever comes first.

[Carpet_pissr]

They plumber told me to not drain at this point as it will shake up the sediment and possibly either keep me from shutting the valve back off, or break the heater so it doesn't heat again. So, I'm leaving it as is, and putting money aside to either buy when we have the $$$ saved or when it breaks and we have some money to go towards. Whatever comes first.

Uh oh. Does "at this point" mean "due to the age of the water heater"? I need to reconsider pulling on that valve I guess!

I had read about "shaking up the sediment" before, now that you mention it.

[Blackhawk]

I am terrified of draining mine. I know there is a ton of sediment - hard water is 120-180 mg/L. Very hard is >180. Ours is 374.

But, as I mentioned before, the landlady will have to remove the sink and one wall to replace it, as it was put in an the bathroom built around it. The part that really tells the story: A few years ago, the regular plumber came out because it wasn't heating water. He ended up replacing the heating element, and told us outright that it was, essentially, dead, but his repairs should be enough to keep it running for a few more years, until after he retired. "Then it will be someone else's problem!", was what he said.

I would not be surprised, if, when the thing finally gives out, the landlady gives us notice and closes down the apartment rather than fixing it. She's elderly, and we're the only paying tenant in a three-apartment house (a member of her family lives in one apartment below us.)

[naednek]

They plumber told me to not drain at this point as it will shake up the sediment and possibly either keep me from shutting the valve back off, or break the heater so it doesn't heat again. So, I'm leaving it as is, and putting money aside to either buy when we have the $$$ saved or when it breaks and we have some money to go towards. Whatever comes first.

Uh oh. Does "at this point" mean "due to the age of the water heater"? I need to reconsider pulling on that valve I guess!

I had read about "shaking up the sediment" before, now that you mention it.

That and they saw sediment dried up on the drainage spout.

[Daehawk]

We've had record heat and next week is even hotter with triple digits so I got up at 7am to mow. I hate mowing wet grass the dew is still on but no other choice unless I want to die or melt later.

[Carpet_pissr]

We've had record heat and next week is even hotter with triple digits so I got up at 7am to mow. I hate mowing wet grass the dew is still on but no other choice unless I want to die or melt later.

I've been opting for the other extreme...REALLY late mowing. Much prefer that to early am.

[Daehawk]

Im way done and showered and have the day free now. Coolest day of the next seven. The weather will keep the grass from growing much.

[Kraken]

The deadbolt on our front door gradually got harder and harder to lock and unlock from outside with the key. I tried lubricating it, using different keys, improving the door's fit in its frame -- but eventually it just got to where the key wouldn't turn anymore.

Because I had to Macguyver the strike plate into place with shims, replacing the unit with anything except the identical deadbolt would be difficult. Today I finally removed the unit to take it into Home Depot in hopes of finding its twin.

When I took it off the door, a loose screw fell onto the floor. Hello, what's this? Why, it's the screw that holds the mechanism onto its housing. Somehow it worked its way free. I wonder if...

Yes. Simply reattaching that screw fixed the problem.

Achievement unlocked. Literally.

[Daehawk]

Does anyone know if a transfer pump would be strong enough to raise water about 10' - 20'? They are made to transfer water from a pond, hottub, water barrel and such. But I need something that can bring water up from a cistern where the level is at least 10" down

[Daehawk]

Do you guys know if a transfer pump....a pump made to empty a pool or hottub will draw water UP vertically through a garden hose size hose 25 foot?

UPDATE....looking into the following ideas / options.

Temp fix---transfer pump to draw up water to flush toilet or wash off with. Will buy jug spring water for my little dog to drink or me. I just now rope and bucketed up a 5gal amount ...boy that water is ice cold down there.

Perm fix - Look into replacement pump for house, used one too.
Look into having it bypassed and a standard in well pump installed
Look into current price to get city to hook up. It was quoted $1200 in 2017. They charge over a grand just so they can charge me each month. Will also look for any new local help program for people on disability or any new programs. Was told the county got a lot of covid money this year so maybe there is something

gives up, sneak in the lady across the streets pond at night and make frog noises while I bath.

[Smoove_B]

Transfer pumps are like 1/10th HP (if I'm not mistaken) and regular well pumps start at 1/2 or full+ HP ratings. I cannot imagine what you're proposing would be possible and whatever money you'd spend on a transfer pump is better going towards a permanent solution.

I'm going to continue to push for connecting to the municipal water supply, same as I did (checks calendar) 5 years ago. Jesus. You need water in the house my dude. Buying bottles, humping buckets, etc... is untenable.

No matter what, you're paying. You're either paying up front to have a reliable long term connection or a smaller amount (with money saved every month) to address the next time there are problems with the pump or any of the other water delivery elements.

I feel for you man, but home ownership is a constant game of whack-a-mole. I just had emergency furnace service over 4th of July weekend, because of course I did. It's always something and water is a BFD.

I think all the earlier resources provided can likely still be helpful, but maybe they have new funding for you at a local level - options to get you connected.

[Daehawk]

YA I think as I recall its $1200 to install the meter at the road and dig it up to the house . Then I have to hire a plumber to actually hook it in. Weee.

I found my local ReStore has some barrels I can store some water in for washing and flushing. 50 gal ones. Metal is $25 and plastic is $15. The plastic ones come with a lid but no spigot at the bottom. They aren't true rainwater barrels. Id have to fill them and then take the top off to bucket enough out to flush the toilet and wash me too. I mean thats a good temp start. If they fit in my car somehow.

Since its the weekend I cant do much until Tuesday and Monday

[Daehawk]

The idea of having a perfectly good well which is free water but pay all that money to hook up to city and pay for water each month is hard to swallow. Granted its plus side it it wont break down...normally.

The other way is to replace this one...it would be a little less than city hookup plus plumber plus monthly bill. The downside is it could break again one day. The upside is I might die before then. And its free water.


If theres a program for city hook up help then there must be one for pump too.

[Smoove_B]

It's free until it isn't. A few months after we moved to our current location, the expansion tank on my boiler failed. That was like $400+ to fix and it'll last 5-10 years.

As I said back in 2017, having city water is an asset for your house. As much as I love not having a water bill, dealing with random water pump outages has always been a pain in the ass. You could replace your pump and the pressure tank will go. It's always something.

I've never been involved with any type of assistance for well-water repair, only for community water hookups. Maybe check here to see if you qualify. You're not an elder, so no grants for you - just a loan.

[Daehawk]

Oh God you mentioned the pressure pump..how could you?? It may be listening. lol. In fact it IS a bit older than the pump by a few years. Shit when I was a kid I swear stuff lasted decades not years. The pump is like 2012. The tank 2010.

But I did have to re-air it a few months back. Luckily the rubber bladder in it seemed intact as it held the pressure. Damn. Maybe city is right. Like I said Ill look into all I can. My neighbor said 4 in the house 2 showers a day and laundry and cooking its like $50. Then again thats another nip out of free money when I have it. I already dont get much over bills now. I like today I paid my house ins renew and it left me $4 in the bank lol...until Aug 3.

Lucky I have a half tank of gas to last me. Have to drive 20 miles to get food Tuesday because my EBT refills...a whopping $125 for a month of food. Im not sure what flavor birdseed they think Im eating.

[Smoove_B]

I fixed the confusing part of my last post. I found two potential funding solutions, but only one was viable. Definitely look into that as you might be able to get enough money on loan to address multiple issues, not just your water connection - assuming you qualify.

[Daehawk]

I fixed the confusing part of my last post. I found two potential funding solutions, but only one was viable. Definitely look into that as you might be able to get enough money on loan to address multiple issues, not just your water connection - assuming you qualify.

hehe phew ok. I was looking at RCAC and its all west coast stuff and Im east Tenneessee.

[Madmarcus]

Since you guys are talking about repairs I'll chime in with mods (it's not good enough work to be cool sh*t). Workbenches are expensive so I decided to build one. I'm not silly enough to think that I really saved money but after 4 years in a tiny apartment it felt nice to mangle some lumber. So now I have a 3 foot by 8 foot workbench and no more excuses when my wife casts a stink eye at my for buying hobby related stuff without ever seeming to do anything with it. Pictures might follow when Lowe's manages to get the final part in so that I can add the drawers.

[em2nought]

I found my local ReStore has some barrels I can store some water in for washing and flushing. 50 gal ones. Metal is $25 and plastic is $15. The plastic ones come with a lid but no spigot at the bottom. They aren't true rainwater barrels.

What's a true rainwater barrel? If those are standard 55 gal plastic barrels you could use them to collect rainwater from your roof. If you put them higher than your toilet you could plumb them to the toilet so you aren't having to carry water anywhere, or having to "pay the man" either.

[Smoove_B]

I'm going to politely suggest that Daehawk is not at the same level of the Professor from Gilligan's Island.