[Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

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Malificent
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

miltonite wrote: Sat Jul 02, 2022 11:42 pm So I am not totally happy with this one. The owner is happy and I guess that is what matters. Using washes improved it to where I don't hate it.
Tasha the 1/2 Elf 1/2 Tabaxi Ranger.
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Of course, any suggestions on things you see that I could have changed to make this better are always welcome.
Its hard to say from a photo for sure, but I might suggest thinning your paints a little more than whatever you're doing. Seems clumpy in places from the rear view of the mini and that might be helped by doing multiple thinner layers.

Still a lot good about the piece (even if you don't love it). I always try and find at least one thing I liked about a mini I painted to keep my self-encouragement going. For example, I like the shadows and texture of the leaf armor.

I'm finding so much of my learning is just putting brush to mini so much. I was reading Atomic Habits and the author tells the story about how a photography professor divided his class into two parts. 1/2 focused on just producing quantity of photos and 1/2 focused on producing a single quality photo. To his surprise, the quantity group was the one producing the quality photos, simply because they had been out there so much trying new things and just practicing. The quality group didn't produce anything above mediocre.

So, keep at it, and the progress will come, simply by you doing the hard work of continuing to paint.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

Malificent wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 3:53 pm
Zarathud wrote: Sun Jul 03, 2022 1:26 am I've never thought of it that way, thanks for the tip Blackhawk.
People have told me to take a photo of the mini in black and white BEFORE painting as reference
That can be handy for finding the details, but the real value ( :ninja: ) of it is that you can give it direct lighting from the angle you prefer with a narrow, bright light (IE - flashlight), and then use the photo as a reference for where to put the highlights and shadows. Sort of the way an artist uses a planar head, a physical model that you can light as you see fit to figure out how to shade your drawing/painting/etc:

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Smoove_B »

Two things

(1) La's Amazing Fun Time Totally Crazy Super Great Cleaner (or whatever it's called) is quite impressive. My standard for years has been Simple Green. It works great but La's is on a different level. It actually strips the paint off the model if you leave it in long enough. After about two hours though a super gentle scrub with a toothbrush removes the 10% of the paint that's left. Simple Green has always required more scrubbing (for me); this is definitely better. The other bonus is no odor - Simple Green smells like a cleaner. La's smells like...nothing.

(2) I re-primed a Nemesis miniature with Army Painter primer and then hit it with the Contrast paints. Worked like a charm. Primer isn't in any way sticky and the contrast paint worked as I'd expected. Flows without any problems - I'm quite pleased with the results. I think I have enough paint for the remaining 19 minis and hopefully the 3D terrain pieces, but I do have a solution. Once stuff dries, I'll post pictures.

Thanks, Blackhawk!
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

What's really fun is stripping the miniatures I painted prior to the 2000s. Every one of them was painted with Testor's enamels. For those, it's a jar of oven cleaner followed by hard scrubbing with a brush. And ugh, the resulting mess is nasty (note - we're talking mostly metal minis here - I wouldn't soak plastic in Easy-Off.)
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

I have a question/request for the folks who are more crafty oriented. I normally refer to myself as mechanically declined but I've got a mini that I want to do a little adding on and I need advice for the best way to get there.

I've got a mini I'm painting from Journeys in Middle Earth. She's a pirate elf, which is pretty awesome.

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I've painted 3/4 of the base to look like wood (kind of) and the other 1/4 will be water resin. You can see where I have drawn a delineator between the "deck" and the "ocean":

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I'd like to build a little ship rail to put there that I could then paint like wood. Where I need help is figuring where to start. What kind of material should I look for and where would I find it? And what kind of obstacles/problems could I expect?

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Smoove_B »

You might be able to kitbash something from a set of 3D terrain - like a piece of fencing used for scatter material on a battlefield.

If you're really looking to be crafty, you can make fencing/railing from matchsticks and/or bits of ice cream sticks. I have some buried somewhere that I used for WW2 gaming. You don't need much more than white PVA glue, an exacto knife and brown paint/ink to do it.

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

Quick research: that would be about waist high, likely some verticals of varying design (although usually turned wood) with a broader top rail. My usual approach is to look at the shape of a thing and figure out what looks approximately like that at scale.

How to make it depends on how elaborate you want to get. The simplest would be to get some bamboo skewers for the verticals (which are slightly thicker than a toothpick), and a coffee stir stick for the rail. I'm imagining something like these:

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If you wanted to fancy it up, I'd consider placing a small bead over the skewer at the top and one at the bottom - and maybe even a smaller one in the middle.

If you wanted to go full-bore, I'd say to get paper clips, cut vertical pieces longer than you need, and then use Green Stuff (kneaditite) to sculpt the verticals. I wouldn't be complex - just roll it like a Play-Doh snake, then press a couple of spots harder as you roll to create the 'turned wood' effect.

The easiest way would be to bring a miniature along with you (I carry an old 28mm board game miniature on my keychain for stuff just like this) and browse a model train store. Check out rails intended for porches/architecture at HO/O/S scales (HO is a little smaller than 28mm scale, O is a little bigger, and S is almost perfect - but extremely rare.) For example.

My concern: With the exception of the steel cored one (which could be pinned through the base), or possibly the premade polystyrene one (the model train rail which could be attached with plastic cement, effectively welding it in place), they'd all be more or less unsupported and would get knocked off or break at the slightest bump.

A safer approach might be to make the rail the solid wood type. In that case, I'd use a piece of thinner materail (maybe foamcore, although a solid plastic piece that could be attached more solidly to the base would probably be safer.) Then I'd attach lengths of wooden coffee stirrers along the sides of it for the planks. Assemble it off of the base, trim the edges, and away you go.

Even then, though, I'd be concerned that without lateral support of some sort, it would be impossible to keep attached to the base for long on anything but a display-only piece. For a gameplay base, I'd probably (personally) make it a wooden deck with a nautical element. Here's what I mean - these are commercially made, but they'd be relatively easy to improvise:
Spoiler:
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The bases themselves are a cinch. If you didn't have plain bases (which are cheap), you could use a washer. For the wood, check out the video below. It's an easy project. For rope, two metal wires twisted together serves just fine (and if that wire is wrapped floral wire it even has a 'fuzziness'.) For hinges, all you need are tiny rectangles of cardboard. Pins cut short - with or without the heads, depending - make good 'nails.'
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

Wow, that is a lot of super helpful info, Blackhawk and Smoove, so thank you both. I'm not quite ready to rip the mini off its existing base yet. That, for some reason, intimidates me. (Someday, maybe?) Plus, I like the mini, but I'm not sure how much gameplay it will get, so I don't want to go crazy for something that won't see a lot of table time.

I think what I'm going to do is going to with the solid rail option. I ordered some coffee stirrers (something I *never* would have thought of, not being a coffee person) and I'm going to see what I can do with those. It feels like the simplest option that is likely not to get destroyed in playtime/storage. While I don't want to put too much effort into a mini that won't get extensive play, I'm also treating it as a learning/experimentation opportunity. I doubt I'll ever go all Hentzau and be building out all this stuff but you never know where life will take you.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Zarathud »

Painted characters and LUNA from Unsettled. Army Painter Fire Giant Orange, Orc Skin, Magic Blue and 50% Hive Dweller Purple. LUNA is Matt White with Gravelord Grey on the back engines. Reaper LED Blue (09288) for the eyes and helmets. Very easy to paint, and looks so much nicer than the plain miniatures.

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Last edited by Zarathud on Fri Jul 08, 2022 8:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

Marvel United X-Men finally starts to get painted. The extra size of the minis adds a good deal of fun for me, as it gives me room to work.

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

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Deadpool riding a unicorn makes everything better.

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

Some pics from last nights set up for a Pulp Alley game:

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

You have the best terrain.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

Malificent wrote:You have the best terrain.
…that money can buy. Image
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Zarathud »

Nice table. :)
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

There is so, so much terrain I'd love to build - if I had a place to store it. That one factor has kept me from engaging with a lot of the game I'd like to.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

Blackhawk wrote:There is so, so much terrain I'd love to build - if I had a place to store it. That one factor has kept me from engaging with a lot of the game I'd like to.
I’m struggling with that right now. I’m so deep into the minis gaming now that I’m starting to sell off a lot of my board games to make room for my terrain. But I’m starting to store stuff outside of my game room too.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Smoove_B »

Good stuff on working with the Speed Paints

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by miltonite »

Intentionally kept this one simple and didn't want to put too much time into it.
A friend from work printed this for me. It is a replacement for the Robber pawn in Settlers of Catan.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by AWS260 »

That is a hilarious mini!
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by baelthazar »

That man loves his sheep!
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

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At least he hasn't got wood...
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by baelthazar »

Blackhawk wrote: Fri Jul 29, 2022 10:06 am At least he hasn't got wood...
You know how many times I have heard "I will give wood for sheep?"

...and while playing Catan too!

*Drumroll*
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

The proper phrasing is, "I've got wood for sheep!"
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by baelthazar »

Blackhawk wrote: Fri Jul 29, 2022 10:13 am The proper phrasing is, "I've got wood for sheep!"
Well, we both ARE from Southern Indiana.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hepcat »

Why is that person motor boating a bunch of sheep?
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by miltonite »

hepcat wrote: Mon Aug 01, 2022 6:45 pm Why is that person motor boating a bunch of sheep?
Don't "Yuck" someone else's "Yum".
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

My next game layout…

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by hentzau »

Finished up these ladies tonight…Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn. Assassins for Projekt Golgo.

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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Smoove_B »

Not painted (yet) but I did want to share a photo of some new models I was working on this weekend. These are from the new Dungeons and Lasers KS project (they're a full design and production facility in Poland). Everything is on sprues and I found assembly was quite easy. Not only are there printed directions with each model, but they're also all clearly labeled. They fit great and I like the level of detail. The ones on the left are regular "hero" size, for reference.

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If you're looking for new minis and/or like building them (I do), then I'd definitely recommend the brand. The fact that they design, manufacture, package and then ship everything in house is impressive.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Malificent »

Etherfields minis. Damn, these are fun and weird, maybe fun because they’re weird…

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Also, Army Painter speed paints blend really well, especially reds and yellows…

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[Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Zarathud »

I’m nearly done painting my Stars of Akarios ships. Most of the ships are two different speed paints.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Punisher »

So... I just started painting again and using it as a form of PT for my various issues.
It's a bit rough. I don't have the dexterity I used to and it's been painful, but still kind of relaxing.
I also just opened the airbrush kit I bought 4 years ago. I never used an airbrush before so I'm still learning.
Questions.
1) What is the difference between regular miniature paints and specific airbrush miniature paints? I see that Army Painter and Vallejo both have both kinds.

2) Can I even use regular paints or do I really need to use the airbrush paints?

3) How big of a difference does it make with the actual airbrush? My kit came with 2 dual-action guns and 1 single-action gun. All 3 are from Master.

4) The single-action gun has the jar at the bottom instead of the cup at the top like the other 2. What is the difference?

5) I have a wet palette for my regular paints and this is really useful when mixing as I can save the paints for days. If I mix the paints in their own bottle are they just going to dry up anyway since they were exposed to air? If so, is there anything I can do to save mixed airbrush colors I mix?

6) I have an airbrush cleaning container that I can use to empty the gun and then run clean water through it. Are there any other must-have tools I should look into?

7) Any major pitfalls for the airbrush I need to look out for? I already know there is a steep learning curve. I've only used it to prime a bunch of models, which is pretty convenient in case the weather gets bad like the rain I've had for 2 days.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

Punisher wrote: Wed Oct 05, 2022 2:15 am
1) What is the difference between regular miniature paints and specific airbrush miniature paints? I see that Army Painter and Vallejo both have both kinds.

2) Can I even use regular paints or do I really need to use the airbrush paints?
I'm going to answer this in chunks to keep my thoughts organized.

1& 2: At it's heart, an airbrush is the same as a squirt bottle. You apply pressure, and the liquid get squeezed through an aperture, which atomizes it. Now, go grab a squirt bottle and fill it with maple syrup.

That's the difference between regular paint and airbrush paint.

You can use lots of paints through an airbrush, including regular miniature paint, varnish, 99-cent Walmart craft paint, you name it. I use mine with Pledge floor polish (incredibly versatile stuff!) The thing is that they all have to be thinned down considerably to squeeze through the airbrush right without clogging it. Syrup in a squirt bottle. Airbrush paints are simply pre-thinned to the right consistency (although sometimes people will thin them even more depending on the application.)

Important point: Thinning acrylics (and I assume you're using acrylics.) Acrylics, contrary to popular understanding, are not water based. They're just water-soluble. At their heart, acrylics are an acrylic medium (a clear goop that dries hard) with a pigment (powdered colors) suspended in it. With them being a suspension, maintaining that is difficult once you start thinning it, as you're altering the density of the liquid itself, making it so that it isn't the right consistency to maintain the even suspension of pigment particles. You can buy acrylic medium (basically colorless acrylics) that will make the paint more transparent, but won't actually change the consistency (ie - won't thin it.) Dumping water into acrylics until it's thin creates a mix that tends to separate very, very quickly leaving your paint blotchy. There are a number of options for thinning for airbrush. Some people swear by rubbing alcohol or even Windex. Most paint manufacturers offer a thinner that's well suited to their own brand. You can also make your own with a combination of mediums and water, but that's a whole ball of wax in and of itself. Personally, I'd suggest getting either a high quality airbrush thinner or a thinner from your paint manufacturer.

When it comes to thinning, get some mixing containers. Something like this. You want a flat bottom, not a kick-up bottom, or mixing becomes a pain. And get yourself some cheap pipettes. Stir sticks, too (I use coffee stir sticks, which are super cheap by the gazillion and have lots of other miniature-adjacent uses.) Mix in the cup, not in the paint jar or the reservoir.

As to how much to thin - every time I see "Thin it to the consistency of milk" I want to slap someone. Whole milk? Skim? If you dig, you'll find 2% milk is the 'ideal', but can you really tell how much thicker 2% milk is from water? One suggestion I've seen is to pour some 2% milk in your airbrush and look at how it splashes, which does help a little. But a better method is to use your mixing pot. Take a drop on a clean stick (a stir stick or toothpick) and touch it to the side of the cup where there's no paint to leave a drop. If it runs down into the cup and leaves a thin trail of paint, it's perfect. If it runs down fast and barely leaves any paint, it's too thin. If it clings and looks like a drop of paint stuck on the side, it's too thick.

Now you can pipette your paint into the reservoir to paint with.

Ready-to-go airbrush paints are great, but you get a lot more versatility being able to use your entire collection. And once you've figured out the thinner and how to judge consistency, it isn't really a hassle to thin the paints.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

3) How big of a difference does it make with the actual airbrush? My kit came with 2 dual-action guns and 1 single-action gun. All 3 are from Master.

4) The single-action gun has the jar at the bottom instead of the cup at the top like the other 2. What is the difference?
For #3, I'm not entirely sure what you're asking. Are you asking about the single vs dual action? For about 90% of miniature work, you want dual action. Single action is a spray can that you can (usually) adjust the width of the spray on via the nozzle. The trigger just controls the air. It's not terribly versatile, but it is simple and convenient. Dual action gives you two controls - one for how much paint goes through, one for how much air goes through. Push the button (is it a button on yours?) down for air flow, pull the button back for paint flow. It lets you adjust every facet of your painting on the fly. I don't know the difference between the two - I'd guess needle size, meaning that one's more precise.

#4: Preference. I prefer gravity fed (reservoir on top), but there are advantages to siphon fed (reservoir on bottom.) The siphon fed lets you see better, since there isn't a cup in the way. It's also harder to accidentally pour the paint out on your lap when you tilt the brush because you aren't paying attention. Repeatedly. ( :doh: )The siphon fed, on the other hand, tends to require more pressure, it's hard to clean (and to change paint colors), it isn't as easy to adjust paint on the fly, and it isn't as easy to use small amounts of paint.

Putting #s 2 and 3 together, I can tell you how I'd use the combination: The single-action, siphon fed brush would be only for coverage and priming. One of the other would be for painting.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Punisher »

Wow. Thanks for all that. I was just expecting a sentence or 2 answer for each question but this is much better.

I did spill a bunch of paint repeatedly... right up until I saw that the gravity fed one came with a cap. Once I put that on it didnt spill anymore.
I didnt realize that the airbrush paints wrre pre-thinned so that helps.
I have only used primer so far and I thinned that with water. It seemed to work ok.
I may need to upgrade the compressor. It doesnt have a yank so I had a lot of stop and wait for pressure to build going on.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

5) I have a wet palette for my regular paints and this is really useful when mixing as I can save the paints for days. If I mix the paints in their own bottle are they just going to dry up anyway since they were exposed to air? If so, is there anything I can do to save mixed airbrush colors I mix?

6) I have an airbrush cleaning container that I can use to empty the gun and then run clean water through it. Are there any other must-have tools I should look into?

7) Any major pitfalls for the airbrush I need to look out for?
#5 - In their own bottle? The thinner will eventually deteriorate the paint. That's why you generally don't want to thin any paint in the bottle. If it is a color you're going to be using vast quantities of, consider buying and airbrush version of that color. If it's primer, I strongly, highly, super-recommend Badger Stynlrez primer. You can get it in black, white, gray, and colored, and the bottles are big enough to last forever. And it's good on practically everything.


#s 6 and 7. Yes, a few.

~Get thee a respirator. I use this one. Acrylic is non-toxic, but as soon as you start spraying, micro-sized particles of dried acrylic float around in the air. It's non-toxic, but particles like that are decidedly not good for your lungs. If you're going to be spraying anything other than acrylic through it, get a cartridge for it that handles organic vapors.

~You didn't mention your compressor. It's pretty important, too. Is it dual chamber or single chamber? Adjustable? Here I'll just copy-paste my own notes on air pressure for you:

Code: Select all

• Adjust pressure and experiment!
	• Lower pressure
		○ Not as smooth
		○ More control
		○ Helps with fine details
	• Higher pressure
		○ Atomizes better - smoother edges
		○ Smoother lines
		○ Harder to control
	• Take notes
	• In general, paint at the lowest pressure that gets a smooth coat
	• Start at 18 PSI
	• Adjust air pressure with trigger pushed
The important points there are to pay attention and experiment, and to keep the trigger pulled when you're setting the air pressure. Turn the compressor on, let it equalize, then hold in the trigger and set the pressure you want to paint with. The reason is that when you let go of the trigger and the brush seals, the pressure is different than when the line is open. Set the pressure with it closed, and it drops when you start painting.

~Learn to field strip that sucker. You'll be doing it a lot. You'll be doing it between sessions to clean it. You'll be doing it when it clogs. Learn where the parts go, take it apart and put it back together a few times. This is frustrating at first, but becomes second nature soon. It's the solution to many of your headaches. But be very, very careful of the needle - bend the tip, even a little, and that needle is shot. You won't be airbrushing until you replace it. It isn't a bad idea to buy an extra and keep that on hand.

~Limit your sources. There are a thousand great videos and how-tos out there, and they're all a little different. You'll just give yourself a headache trying to learn from all of them at once. Worse yet, most of them aren't designed for miniature painters at all. Most miniature painters just show you how they apply their skills without actually teaching you those skills. About 99% of the guides and videos you see out there fall into two categories: The day-one basics (which side is the front, how not to spray paint in your eye), and the year-two advanced ("Here I faded the three colors together and applied a filter!".) There are very few that show you the rest of year one. The best source I've found so far isn't directed at miniatures at all. [URLhttps://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0890249571/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Airbrushing for Scale Modelers[/URL].

~The real way to learn is to experiment. Get some green army men, or some sheets of paper and play. Write your name. Do stupid things. Make a line. Turn the pressure up. Make the same line. Turn the pressure down. Make the same line again. Make a rainbow. Draw a 10x10 grid. Now put dots in the center of all of the squares without touching the lines. Play some more. And take notes!

Some tips:
~Get thee some 91% isopropyl alcohol. It's like a buck from the first aid section at Walmart. It's better than 90% of the airbrush cleaning solutions on the market.
~Make sure you have proper cleaning tools for your brush.
~Multiple light coats is better than a single, heavy coat.
~Paint tends to be heavier in the center of the spray pattern. If you want an even coat, spray from off of the surface, over the surface, and back off of the surface (ie - start spraying in the air and move it across the model), and slightly overlap the coats, sort of like you're mowing the lawn, so that the thin are from one line overlaps the thin area from the previous line.
~Understand that there are a number of factors that all go into the final result: Air pressure, how much the paint is thinned, and your distance from the model are the big ones.
~If you are getting a grainy, pebbly surface, it means that your paint is half dry before hitting the surface. Your pressure is probably too high (the paint is atomized into smaller, faster-drying droplets), and/or you're too far away (giving the droplets more time in the air before they hit the surface.)
~If you are getting paint spidering...
Spoiler:
Image
...your paint is probably too thin, or you're too close. You're spraying water at the surface and then blowing it around. It's 'splashing'.
~If it is spattering (hitting the surface with drops of paint instead of a mist), it isn't atomizing and you're tossing drops of paint at the surface. It's either too thick, the pressure is too low, or both.
~If it is sputtering or sounds anything but like a smooth, even hiss, your brush is dirty. Pay special attention to the nozzle and the needle.
~Periodically dab the nozzle. A paper towel with a bit of alcohol is your friend.
~Run a bit of alcohol through the brush between colors to both clear the color and to prevent build-up.
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Blackhawk
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Blackhawk »

Punisher wrote: Wed Oct 05, 2022 10:44 am I may need to upgrade the compressor. It doesnt have a yank so I had a lot of stop and wait for pressure to build going on.
Ah, and you mentioned your compressor while I was talking about you not mentioning your compressor! Tricksy!

If you do upgrade, there are real advantages to a dual tank compressor. I have this one, although it came as part of a full set about eight years ago. With the single tank, the compressor is working to keep the pressure in the tank while you're drawing from it, causing the pressure to fluctuate while you work. With a dual tank, the airbrush draws from tank #2 while tank #1 refills tank #2. The compressor itself just keeps tank #1 pressurized. That means that the pressure is constant.
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Re: [Miniatures] Painting tips and progress reports (with pics!)

Post by Punisher »

This is the conpressor I currently have.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YT4 ... asin_title

Once I am sure I am going to airbrush regularly I am considering upgrading to this.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006AC ... NPFB&psc=1
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